Celebs and unexpected shoes hit Paris Fashion Week
Sport stars Lewis Hamilton and Maria Sharapova were the apt glitterati at Stella McCartney's kinetic show in Paris Monday, as Salma Hayek rocked Saint Laurent's Nineties-nostalgia evening show in midnight black.
Here are the highlights of Monday's spring-summer 2016 readyto-wear shows.
These (Rubber) Boots Are Made
for (Runway) Walking
This is the season of the unexpected shoe.
Fashion institution Saint Laurent has been taken in an intriguing new direction with the tenure of French-born, Italian-Tunisian designer Hedi Slimane.
This season, irreverent Slimane twinned the sacred Yves Saint Laurent tuxedo — the one that broke-boundaries in fashion and changed gender stereotypes for all eternity — with plain old, rubber boots. The type you dance about in at muddy festivals.
Love it or hate it, they're going to jump off the shelves.
U.S. Vogue Creative Director Grace Coddington was seen rather furiously scribbling on a notepad during the show while wearing equally low-key leopard plimsolls.
Hermes' designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski is also catching on to the unexpected-shoe trend.
The luxury giant shocked many by showcasing plain sneakers as part of their spring-summer collection.
Hedi Slimane’s ’90s
It all pointed to the same thing. Baggy gray knit sweaters with crumpled sleeves, short sparkling disco dresses with baggy coats of the same length, alongside tiger motif sweaters, denim minis and sparkling tiaras.
Saint Laurent's spring-summer collection was the Nineties: grunge, mud, warts and all.
In case anyone was in doubt, the so-British rubber boots demonstrated that all this was about the rise of music festivals during the period of grunge where millions learnt the art of dancing in a field.
But the ’ 68 looks were also so much more.
The collection was Slimane's most exhaustive to date — taking in the glamorous ’90s split-leg dress, as well as his signature penchant for the snake and leopard of the Seventies and Eighties, with a fabulous ostrich wrap.
One stylish but incongruous Regency-style floral dress bucked everything and made it look like eagle-eyed Slimane had raided his local second-hand shop for inspiration.
Stella McCartney’s Kinesis
The fashion invite had “STELLA” emblazoned in shimmering gold on brass knuckles.
So when Stella McCartney's collection exploded Monday morning with color, stripes and movement it came as no surprise.
Bold, masculine checks in fluid silhouettes opened — with a gentler feminine edge provided by subtle plays on transparencies.
Contrast color pleated dresses swung by on models with exposed shoulders in bars of bright blue, spring green, chili red and pink.
The hemlines bounced elastically revealing flashes of leg, to a booming soundtrack with the refrain "Spandex" on repeat. It was a point not lost on chuckling fashionistas as the expensive silk gowns filed by inside Paris' palatial Opera Garnier.
It was the masculine soldier versus the feminine heroine in Sarah Burton's historic fairytale of a readyto-wear show.
The fierceness that's been the British designer's touchstone in recent seasons was here in droves in the 41-piece Alexander McQueen collection, with chainmail dresses in black and white stripes, 1800s red British military tailcoats, as well as crisscross chains and medals.
But it balanced out well in a softer collection than normal — that showcased the floral dresses and silhouettes of Regency or Victorian England, worthy of Jane Austen.
Fluttery silk and cotton dresses in oyster with layers and tassels had a nice nostalgic, crumpled texture as if taken out of an old chest. Tight Victorian coats followed floral gowns with floaty frills, and some that mirrored the Empire-style with high waists and open circular shoulders.
It was a nice new direction.
Giambattista Valli Mixes It up
Flowers, colors, retro edges, sporty miniskirts, and long sweeping organza gowns all went into the creative pot for one of the most diverse collections Giambattista Valli has produced in seasons.
The Italian-born designer channeled the Sixties, a vibe that has been ubiquitous on the Paris catwalk ever since Nicolas Ghesquiere baptized it as his debut at Louis Vuitton last year.
Crisp, white A-line minis were served up with stylish roman san- dals on models with Twiggy-like center-partings.
Tight, sleeveless floral tops with floppy, round retro lapels, high embellished collars and chic silk neckties all added to the Swinging Sixties vibe.
The divergence of color, pattern and styles ensured it was a saleable collection, but the talented Valli might have reined in the 46-piece affair to add focus.
Nevertheless, the final look — a sweeping yellow silk Empire-line gown with floral Renaissance panels in the bust — shows exactly why he's a red-carpet favorite.
Hermes’ Dramatic Face Change
The sophomore outing for new Hermes designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski confirms a change of face — a pared down, at times sanitized collection Monday that diverged from the huggable, layered coziness we've come to associate with the powerhouse synonymous with luxury.
Feminine and simple designs in black and white began the collection — baggy pants, loose hanging silhouettes and A- line minis.
A dalliance in check then spawned some — shock! — workaday sneakers in white, which recurred throughout the collection in hues of red and blue.
As sports vibe infused most of the looks — round sporty collars, lots of white, and a rich cobalt leather dress with a sports vest at the top.
The show turned up the luxury factor as it progressed — in some beautiful leathers and suedes.
(Above) Models wear creations as part of Stella McCartney’s spring-summer 2016 ready-to-wear fashion collection, presented during Paris Fashion Week, Monday, Oct. 5. (Right) A model wears a creation for Hermes’ spring-summer 2016 ready-to-wear fashion collection, presented during Paris Fashion Week, Monday.