Celebs and un­ex­pected shoes hit Paris Fash­ion Week

The China Post - - ARTS - BY THOMAS ADAM­SON

Sport stars Lewis Hamil­ton and Maria Shara­pova were the apt glit­terati at Stella McCart­ney's ki­netic show in Paris Mon­day, as Salma Hayek rocked Saint Lau­rent's Nineties-nos­tal­gia evening show in mid­night black.

Here are the high­lights of Mon­day's spring-sum­mer 2016 readyto-wear shows.

These (Rub­ber) Boots Are Made

for (Run­way) Walk­ing

This is the sea­son of the un­ex­pected shoe.

Fash­ion in­sti­tu­tion Saint Lau­rent has been taken in an in­trigu­ing new di­rec­tion with the ten­ure of French-born, Ital­ian-Tu­nisian de­signer Hedi Sli­mane.

This sea­son, ir­rev­er­ent Sli­mane twinned the sa­cred Yves Saint Lau­rent tuxedo — the one that broke-bound­aries in fash­ion and changed gen­der stereo­types for all eter­nity — with plain old, rub­ber boots. The type you dance about in at muddy fes­ti­vals.

Love it or hate it, they're go­ing to jump off the shelves.

U.S. Vogue Cre­ative Di­rec­tor Grace Cod­ding­ton was seen rather fu­ri­ously scrib­bling on a notepad dur­ing the show while wear­ing equally low-key leop­ard plim­solls.

Her­mes' de­signer Nadege Van­hee-Cybulski is also catch­ing on to the un­ex­pected-shoe trend.

The lux­ury gi­ant shocked many by show­cas­ing plain sneak­ers as part of their spring-sum­mer col­lec­tion.

Hedi Sli­mane’s ’90s

Fes­ti­val Re­vival

It all pointed to the same thing. Baggy gray knit sweaters with crum­pled sleeves, short sparkling disco dresses with baggy coats of the same length, along­side tiger mo­tif sweaters, denim mi­nis and sparkling tiaras.

Saint Lau­rent's spring-sum­mer col­lec­tion was the Nineties: grunge, mud, warts and all.

In case any­one was in doubt, the so-Bri­tish rub­ber boots demon­strated that all this was about the rise of mu­sic fes­ti­vals dur­ing the pe­riod of grunge where mil­lions learnt the art of danc­ing in a field.

But the ’ 68 looks were also so much more.

The col­lec­tion was Sli­mane's most ex­haus­tive to date — tak­ing in the glam­orous ’90s split-leg dress, as well as his sig­na­ture pen­chant for the snake and leop­ard of the Sev­en­ties and Eight­ies, with a fab­u­lous ostrich wrap.

One stylish but in­con­gru­ous Re­gency-style flo­ral dress bucked ev­ery­thing and made it look like ea­gle-eyed Sli­mane had raided his lo­cal sec­ond-hand shop for in­spi­ra­tion.

Stella McCart­ney’s Ki­ne­sis

The fash­ion in­vite had “STELLA” em­bla­zoned in shim­mer­ing gold on brass knuck­les.

So when Stella McCart­ney's col­lec­tion ex­ploded Mon­day morn­ing with color, stripes and move­ment it came as no sur­prise.

Bold, mas­cu­line checks in fluid sil­hou­ettes opened — with a gen­tler fem­i­nine edge pro­vided by sub­tle plays on trans­paren­cies.

Con­trast color pleated dresses swung by on mod­els with ex­posed shoul­ders in bars of bright blue, spring green, chili red and pink.

The hem­lines bounced elas­ti­cally re­veal­ing flashes of leg, to a boom­ing sound­track with the re­frain "Span­dex" on re­peat. It was a point not lost on chuck­ling fash­ion­istas as the ex­pen­sive silk gowns filed by in­side Paris' pala­tial Opera Garnier.

Alexan­der McQueen

Soft­ens Slightly

It was the mas­cu­line soldier ver­sus the fem­i­nine hero­ine in Sarah Bur­ton's his­toric fairy­tale of a readyto-wear show.

The fierce­ness that's been the Bri­tish de­signer's touch­stone in re­cent sea­sons was here in droves in the 41-piece Alexan­der McQueen col­lec­tion, with chain­mail dresses in black and white stripes, 1800s red Bri­tish mil­i­tary tail­coats, as well as crisscross chains and medals.

But it bal­anced out well in a softer col­lec­tion than nor­mal — that show­cased the flo­ral dresses and sil­hou­ettes of Re­gency or Vic­to­rian Eng­land, wor­thy of Jane Austen.

Flut­tery silk and cot­ton dresses in oys­ter with lay­ers and tas­sels had a nice nos­tal­gic, crum­pled tex­ture as if taken out of an old chest. Tight Vic­to­rian coats fol­lowed flo­ral gowns with floaty frills, and some that mir­rored the Em­pire-style with high waists and open cir­cu­lar shoul­ders.

It was a nice new di­rec­tion.

Gi­ambat­tista Valli Mixes It up

Flow­ers, col­ors, retro edges, sporty miniskirts, and long sweep­ing or­ganza gowns all went into the cre­ative pot for one of the most di­verse col­lec­tions Gi­ambat­tista Valli has pro­duced in sea­sons.

The Ital­ian-born de­signer chan­neled the Six­ties, a vibe that has been ubiq­ui­tous on the Paris cat­walk ever since Ni­co­las Gh­esquiere bap­tized it as his de­but at Louis Vuit­ton last year.

Crisp, white A-line mi­nis were served up with stylish ro­man san- dals on mod­els with Twiggy-like cen­ter-part­ings.

Tight, sleeve­less flo­ral tops with floppy, round retro lapels, high em­bel­lished col­lars and chic silk neck­ties all added to the Swing­ing Six­ties vibe.

The di­ver­gence of color, pat­tern and styles en­sured it was a saleable col­lec­tion, but the tal­ented Valli might have reined in the 46-piece af­fair to add fo­cus.

Nev­er­the­less, the fi­nal look — a sweep­ing yel­low silk Em­pire-line gown with flo­ral Re­nais­sance pan­els in the bust — shows ex­actly why he's a red-car­pet fa­vorite.

Her­mes’ Dra­matic Face Change

The sopho­more out­ing for new Her­mes de­signer Nadege Van­hee-Cybulski con­firms a change of face — a pared down, at times san­i­tized col­lec­tion Mon­day that di­verged from the hug­gable, lay­ered co­zi­ness we've come to as­so­ciate with the pow­er­house syn­ony­mous with lux­ury.

Fem­i­nine and sim­ple de­signs in black and white be­gan the col­lec­tion — baggy pants, loose hang­ing sil­hou­ettes and A- line mi­nis.

A dal­liance in check then spawned some — shock! — worka­day sneak­ers in white, which re­curred through­out the col­lec­tion in hues of red and blue.

As sports vibe in­fused most of the looks — round sporty col­lars, lots of white, and a rich cobalt leather dress with a sports vest at the top.

The show turned up the lux­ury fac­tor as it pro­gressed — in some beau­ti­ful leathers and suedes.


(Above) Mod­els wear cre­ations as part of Stella McCart­ney’s spring-sum­mer 2016 ready-to-wear fash­ion col­lec­tion, pre­sented dur­ing Paris Fash­ion Week, Mon­day, Oct. 5. (Right) A model wears a cre­ation for Her­mes’ spring-sum­mer 2016 ready-to-wear fash­ion col­lec­tion, pre­sented dur­ing Paris Fash­ion Week, Mon­day.

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