Delicious homely Old BKK stalwarts (all cash only). Leng: Backpacker land hole in the wall / 158-160 Tanao Rd / 02 622 2062 / 10am-8pm Mon-sat. Krua Apsorn: Dingy, but the Royal Fam are said to be regulars / Samsen Rd / near Soi 9 / 02 241 8528 / 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-sat. Raan Jay Fai. Fabulous drunken noodles / 327 Thanon Maha Chai / 3pm-2am / 02 223 9384.