Start this sightseeing n’ retail quickie at #158 Siam Celadon / 053 234 518 / siamceladon.com / look for the ‘Raming Tea’ sign / in a gorgeous old cream teak villa with terrace, garden, resto and salon de thé. Exit right and head across the road to Wat Bupparam, a small, dark, well-preserved peaky, teaky, gold-tipped treat. Back across the road at #214/216 is Achara Silver / 053 251 349 / closed Sun / acharasilver.com / for high-end, woven silver chokers, beads and other hilltribeinspired designs. Want something a little more jazzed and contemporary? Cross the road to NOVA (see Adv. Shopping) at #179 for a snazz selection of metals and finishes, and then Taste From Heaven at #237 / 053 208 803 / taste4heaven. com / serves veg and tofu treats. Cross back over the road to Hilltribe House / 087 507 7908 / hilltribehouse.com / for a beautiful teak house with modern clothing, fabrics and accessories inspired by hilltribe textiles and costumes. Stop for a photo op in front of Wat Mahawan’s large, ornate doors, before tottering along towards Thapae Gate. Towards the end, on your right, pop into Herb Basics / #344 / 053 234 585 / herbbasicschiangmai.com / for homespun, natural bath and body products; a little further along at #390 Lanna Silver / 053 232 892 / has a wide range; then look out for two, side by side, signless, yellow and orange shops at #400-402, which both have amazing value costume jewellery from Vietnam; while at #401 is Boots the Chemist (see V. Useful). Finally, swing right into Soi Chang Moi Kao next to Boots for two good used book shops: Gecko Books at #2/6 and Back Street Books at #2/8. Famished? Pop your pants into Pulcinella at #2/1-2 / 053 874 189 / for a quick Italian, or for a different taste, double back down Thapae a little way to the tiny Chang Moi Soi 2, and walk along to ‘W’ (see Rest./ Relaxed) for a spot of lunch or tea and Parisian cake. Bon!