Galata & Karaköy.
This funky nabe, the city’s equivalent of SoHo, is home to ace dining, galleries and caffs, and makes for a lovely meander. Starting at Istanbul Modern (see Wall Haul), travel southwest along the waterfront, weaving in and out of the streets and lanes. Look out for gleaming Kiliç Ali Pasa¸ Hamami (see Hammam), gallery Art Sümer / Mumhane Cad. 67 / 249 1035 / artsumer.com, trendy Ops Café / Mumhane Cad. 45 / 245 0288, Lokanta Maya (see Rest./Smart), plus a generous helping of beaut retail. Sneakers on, Suse!