Head straight to this mod­ern In­dian eatery once you are al­lowed out again and spice up your life once more



La restau­rant re­view dur­ing a time when restau­rants are ei­ther en­tirely closed for busi­ness or op­er­at­ing a con­tact­less home de­liv­ery ser­vice, but see­ing as we are stuck at home and en­dur­ing the safe monotony of re­peated vis­its to the fridge, I will hap­pily re­port that the set­ting of Bom­bay Bor­ough is ab­so­lutely de­light­ful and that when you are once again al­lowed the thrill of leav­ing your home for the most un­nec­es­sary of rea­sons, I en­cour­age you to head down to this lit­tle gem and or­der ev­ery­thing on the menu. Be­cause the restau­rant only opened rel­a­tively re­cently, they aren’t at time of go­ing to press of­fer­ing a home de­liv­ery ser­vice, so for now you’ll have to take my word for it that their menu is very, very good.

Spread over two floors and an out­door ter­race, the colour­ful, eclec­tic in­te­rior of­fers an abun­dance of cosy nooks in which to make your­self feel at home. Dur­ing our visit we threw cau­tion to the wind and asked our server to choose dishes for us. And it was all ab­so­lutely won­der­ful. A seabass ce­viche cured in a mango-mus­tard blend, prawns tossed with a fiery chilli chut­ney and a plate of hot and spicy fried chicken ten­ders barely had time to cool at the ta­ble be­fore they were de­voured. Colour and flavour de­fines the ex­pe­ri­ence here, but the ser­vice too is as warm as those abun­dant spices, adding to the wel­com­ing, re­laxed am­bi­ence. It’s a great spot in which to en­ter­tain your guests with­out the un­ec­ces­sary fuss and frill of for­mal­ity.

The colour­ful, beau­ti­fully plated dishes in­vite shar­ing – their in­gre­di­ents draw on all cor­ners of In­dian tra­di­tions, bring­ing the rich­ness of the con­ti­nent’s culi­nary tra­di­tions to your ta­ble, a mi­cro­cosm of a coun­try’s gas­tro­nomic her­itage. A ba­nana leaf-wrapped sea bass in Ker­ala spiced tomato and co­conut sauce, Chen­naistyle crab roti, smoked Jodh­pur mut­ton and Pun­jabi-style chick­peas…. The as­sort­ment of small bites, big plates and house spe­cials is de­li­ciously deca­dent and re­ally, if you’re even slightly un­sure as to what to or­der, put your­self in the hands of your server and al­low a pro­ces­sion of thrilling, tan­ta­lis­ing flavours to be brought to you. Home-made pil­lowy naan breads and a biryani dish flecked with saf­fron and Ira­nian berries padded out any re­main­ing room dur­ing our first visit, but the prom­ise of the Bom­bay Ice Cream sand­wich and An­glo-In­dian bread pudding is call­ing us for a re­peat visit. The restau­rant cu­rates a busi­ness lunch menu, which makes all that end­less choice so much eas­ier if your time is lim­ited, and there is also a high tea op­tion, as well as lighter nib­bles that can be en­joyed at the lav­ish, well-stocked bar area. We can’t wait to go back, and I bet any­one read­ing this is pretty im­pa­tient for that day to come too. Let’s hope it won’t be too long be­fore we can.

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