QURESHI’S KE­BABS AND KURRY

Coun­try Club, Dubai

Friday - - Review -

Qureshi’s, the small in­ti­mate In­dian restau­rant at the Coun­try Club, Dubai, had a fleet of hun­gry people wait­ing out­side when we ar­rived, – al­ways a good sign.

With Dubai’s plethora of In­dian eater­ies we had our fin­gers crossed that this would have some­thing new to of­fer. We weren’t dis­ap­pointed; the restau­rant lived up to the Qureshi legacy – a 200-year-old fam­ily of chefs to In­dian royalty.

We started off with the Dahi Ke Kabab; deep-fried muslin-hung yo­gurt that dis­solves on the tongue, van­ish­ing with the trail of spice it leaves be­hind. The melt-in-your­mouth Kakori Ke­babs, (spiced minced lamb ke­babs) fol­lowed. The Dal Bukhari and Murgh Mus­salum (en­tire chicken mar­i­nated overnight and cooked in dum) saw us go back to ba­sics with our main course.

Qureshi’s ver­sion of the hum­ble black dal slow-cooked overnight in tomato gravy with a flour­ish of but­ter and cream was a rev­e­la­tion – see, dal doesn’t have to be bor­ing.

Suc­cu­lent and burst­ing with flavour, the chicken found its mark on our palates, as did the Luc­knowi Ne­hari, vel­vety smooth qorma of lamb shanks cooked in their own juices. The dum biryani came along, nar­rat­ing the story of Qureshi’s mas­tery of the Dum Phukt style of cook­ing over a slow fire. Aro­matic, flavour­ful and fill­ing, it had us thank­ing our good sense for hav­ing or­dered the light roomali ro­tis as bread ac­com­pa­ni­ments.

Be warned. Qureshi means busi­ness when it says spicy, so it’s ad­vis­able to men­tion your spice thresh­old be­fore you or­der. We didn’t, so we ended up seek­ing re­lief with wa­ter and yo­ghurt while re­lent­lessly eat­ing our way through the cour­ses – that’s how good the food was.

The desserts were a wel­come ar­rival and def­i­nitely the high­light of our evening. Not be­cause they took the edge off the spice as­sault, but be­cause they were an ed­u­ca­tion

The desserts were a wel­come ar­rival and def­i­nitely the high­light of our evening

in what culi­nary rich­ness ac­tu­ally en­tails. The shahi tukra – bread slices deep-fried in ghee, soaked in saf­fron-laced milk, golden syrup and em­bel­lished with ed­i­ble sil­ver leaf and nuts – was rich­ness per­son­i­fied. The sha­had-e-jaam, the gu­lab ja­mun’s re­gal cousin, also met our ex­pec­ta­tions.

With strains of the live ghazal singer’s mu­sic, great veg­e­tar­ian as well as non-veg­e­tar­ian cur­ries and ke­babs to choose from, and prices that are easy on the pocket, Qureshi’s is a restau­rant we’re go­ing to re­turn to. But af­ter we hit the gym.

SPICE LOVERS

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