NAPLES

Friday - - Travel -

THE FOODIE ONE It’s no­to­ri­ous for be­ing a bit rough round the edges, but un­like preeny Rome and de­vout Venice, Napoli sim­mers with pas­sion. Home to Italy’s gooiest pizza and smoothest gelato, it also tempts with its raff­ish dock­side glam­our, a ruggedly cin­e­matic Ve­su­vian back­drop and chaotic streets made for Vespa’ing through with lovers’ arms clasped tightly round waists. The per­fect prom­e­nade: The dusty half-light of the Cen­tro Storico in­vites hand-in-hand wan­der­ings, with his­tory re­vealed in a strip­tease of layer af­ter crumbling layer (gothic, baroque, neo­clas­si­cal…). In­spired by those wed­ding-cake sea­side man­sions and their piped-cream cor­nic­ing? Try the city’s best-loved ice cream at Chalet Ciro (chalet­ciro.it). The cosy bar: Clink glasses at Enoteca Belle­donne (enote­ca­belle­donne.com), where sim­ple bare bricks meet wooden ta­bles. The can­dlelit din­ner: No need to bicker over which pizze­ria – you’ll rem­i­nisce for years about the Dh14 margher­i­tas at Di Mat­teo (pizze­ri­adi­mat­teo.com). For a date-night vibe, do dough­nuts ooz­ing moz­zarella and sun-dried to­ma­toes in lam­plit La Stanza del Gusto (las­tan­zadel­gusto.com; mains about Dh55). The ro­man­tic stay: Con­stanti­nop­oli 104 has a pool just big enough for two, and pas­tel rooms with wrought-iron beds (con­stanti­nop­oli104.com; dou­bles from Dh709, B&B).

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