THE FOODIE ONE It’s notorious for being a bit rough round the edges, but unlike preeny Rome and devout Venice, Napoli simmers with passion. Home to Italy’s gooiest pizza and smoothest gelato, it also tempts with its raffish dockside glamour, a ruggedly cinematic Vesuvian backdrop and chaotic streets made for Vespa’ing through with lovers’ arms clasped tightly round waists. The perfect promenade: The dusty half-light of the Centro Storico invites hand-in-hand wanderings, with history revealed in a striptease of layer after crumbling layer (gothic, baroque, neoclassical…). Inspired by those wedding-cake seaside mansions and their piped-cream cornicing? Try the city’s best-loved ice cream at Chalet Ciro (chaletciro.it). The cosy bar: Clink glasses at Enoteca Belledonne (enotecabelledonne.com), where simple bare bricks meet wooden tables. The candlelit dinner: No need to bicker over which pizzeria – you’ll reminisce for years about the Dh14 margheritas at Di Matteo (pizzeriadimatteo.com). For a date-night vibe, do doughnuts oozing mozzarella and sun-dried tomatoes in lamplit La Stanza del Gusto (lastanzadelgusto.com; mains about Dh55). The romantic stay: Constantinopoli 104 has a pool just big enough for two, and pastel rooms with wrought-iron beds (constantinopoli104.com; doubles from Dh709, B&B).