THE COSY ONE Booking sites would have you believe that Holland’s capital only suits stag dos and hipsters. But it comes into its own on cool, crisp days, when candles glow in steamed-up windows, and canal-side walks almost demand a warming arm around you. The perfect promenade: The western stretch of Prinsengracht is the city’s most scenic slice of waterway. Split a stack of caramel pannekoeken at the Pancake Bakery (pancake.nl; about Dh55) before moseying south, turning east to browse the dinky vintage stores, florists and jewellery shops of the ‘Nine Streets’. Then seek out Begijnhof, a secret convent courtyard that’s perfect for a quiet moment à deux (begijnhofamsterdam.nl; free). The cosy bar: Vesper, with its charcoal walls and shuttered windows (vesperbar.nl), is posh enough to feel like a treat – without a trace of pretentiousness. The candlelit dinner: A restaurant marooned on a manmade island might sound eerie, but copper panels, palm trees and green velvet furnishings warm up the inside of Mos, while its halibut with black sesame cream melts hearts (mosamsterdam.nl; four-course set menu Dh206). The romantic stay: Lashings of leather, velvet and black give the Canal House a frisson of film noir. There’s a garden for getting cosy if it’s warm, and dreamy canal views if it isn’t (canalhouse.nl; doubles from £938, room only).