Friday - - Travel -

THE COSY ONE Book­ing sites would have you be­lieve that Hol­land’s cap­i­tal only suits stag dos and hip­sters. But it comes into its own on cool, crisp days, when can­dles glow in steamed-up win­dows, and canal-side walks al­most de­mand a warm­ing arm around you. The per­fect prom­e­nade: The western stretch of Prin­sen­gracht is the city’s most scenic slice of wa­ter­way. Split a stack of caramel pan­nekoeken at the Pan­cake Bak­ery (pan­; about Dh55) be­fore mo­sey­ing south, turn­ing east to browse the dinky vin­tage stores, florists and jew­ellery shops of the ‘Nine Streets’. Then seek out Begi­jn­hof, a se­cret con­vent court­yard that’s per­fect for a quiet mo­ment à deux (be­gi­jn­ho­fam­s­ter­; free). The cosy bar: Ves­per, with its char­coal walls and shut­tered win­dows (ves­per­, is posh enough to feel like a treat – with­out a trace of pre­ten­tious­ness. The can­dlelit din­ner: A restau­rant ma­rooned on a man­made is­land might sound eerie, but cop­per pan­els, palm trees and green vel­vet fur­nish­ings warm up the inside of Mos, while its hal­ibut with black se­same cream melts hearts (mosam­s­ter­; four-course set menu Dh206). The ro­man­tic stay: Lash­ings of leather, vel­vet and black give the Canal House a fris­son of film noir. There’s a gar­den for get­ting cosy if it’s warm, and dreamy canal views if it isn’t (canal­; dou­bles from £938, room only).

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