Eat Sleep Rave Re­peat

Infusion Magazine - - LOOKING CLOSER -

Food trends come and food trends go. Nou­velle Cui­sine in the 80s, for­ag­ing and street food in the noughties and of course Molec­u­lar Gas­tron­omy in the 90s. The use of chem­i­cals and sci­en­tifi c tech­niques have be­come stan­dard in the fi ne dining kitchens of the world from the sorely missed El Bulli in Cat­alo­nia, The French Laun­dry in Cal­i­for­nia to the Fat Duck in Bray in the UK. I’ve had many a foam, liq­uid spher­ifi cation, pow­der and fl uid gel in my time but never when it comes to In­dian food, so I was very in­ter­ested to be asked to head to The Radisson Royal to eat at Tresind. Opened only four months ago, the fi rst thing that hits you is the space: it’s a lovely in­ti­mate set­ting, with well thought out ta­bles and a sep­a­rate bar area with nice sub­tle light­ing. We sat in the win­dow with a great view of SZR be­low and took in a drink whilst we re­viewed the menu. There is a lot to take in, so we plumped for the chef’s taster which comes in a veg and non veg op­tion to get a real sense of what they are try­ing to achieve. First up was a de­con­structed Pani Puri, pre­sented on a spoon and downed with a sin­gle mouth­ful of mint, puffed rice and tamarind gel. The chef then turned up with a trol­ley, a jug and a tray, very in­trigu­ing but it all be­came clear when he placed a hand­ful of Dhok­las ( South In­dian sponge) into a Ni­tro­gen bath while cre­at­ing a Jack­son Pol­lock in­spired scene

all over the tray. With a splash of yo­gurt, a hand­ful of fried pas­try sheets, a pinch of Ja­panese Tog­a­rashi sea­son­ing ( which I am a bit par­tial to on any­thing) and some masala in the mix, he then crushed the now ice cold sponge into it to make a mod­ern take on the Pa­pri Chaat that is com­mon place on the side streets of In­dia. It was lovely, spicy, soft, crunchy and re­fresh­ing. We then moved to a course in­spired by the Eastern love of tea, this time a pun­gent wild mush­room soup poured from a pot into a cup with dried mush­rooms and truffl e pow­der. Thick and pep­pery, it coated the in­side of my mouth whilst we wait for the next de­light. It duly ar­rived, with a beau­ti­fully pre­sented tuna tar­tar in a dry ice smok­ing bowl, del­i­cate to the touch and bal­anced with a slight cumin kick. Three smaller plates fol­lowed: a suc­cu­lent lamb chop with mango chut­ney two ways: one a light puree and the other a fl avor bomb of a jelly, each com­ple­ment­ing the del­i­cate lamb in dif­fer­ent ways. This came along­side a light co­conut and curry leaf king prawn, again per­fectly cooked and full of fl avour plus a tip to the Mid­dle East with a chicken Shwarma Kulcha that was creamy and hearty. We were then left with a Khandvi fl avored sor­bet; this is nor­mally an In­dian sa­vory snack but was used very clev­erly and was a beau­ti­ful palate cleanser for the main course. By this point we had eaten quite a lot so I wasn’t re­ally ex­pect­ing a full sized main as part of the tast­ing menu, but I was very happy when it ar­rived as I’ve never eaten any­thing quite like it be­fore. A suc­cu­lent duck meat­ball sat in the mid­dle of the plate sur­rounded by a rich

meaty dark brown gravy: I cut in and a runny egg yoke spilled out and en­veloped ev­ery­thing. And with a but­tery black lentil dhal and two veg­gie kulchas ( and the bread bas­ket to help mop up the eggy over­spill), it was a joy to eat. I was in­trigued by the con­cept and part of me thought that th­ese type of tech­niques had had their day but I hold my hands up - I was wrong. Used spar­ingly with a lit­tle show­man­ship, there is still life in the old dog yet and if you want to go and eat some amaz­ing mod­ern In­dian fi ne dining fare then Tresind to­tally de­liv­ers at a very rea­son­able price. Tresind, Radisson Royal Ho­tel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, daily 7pm

to 11.30pm. Tel: 04 308 0440. Metro: World Trade Cen­tre.

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