Herrera takes a bow as de La Renta, Ralph Lauren and Black Panther showcase diversity
Classic styles on show as designer bids adieu
Carolina Herrera has represented refined, elegant glamour for decades, so it was fitting that she invoked classic styles as she delivered her final New York Fashion Week collection as the designer of her self-titled line. Monday’s event was held at the Museum of Modern Art – a fitting venue, given Herrera’s outsized contributions to contemporary fashion over her decades as a designer. But her collection was timeless, not something that could be relegated to one era. In front of a crowd that included Karlie Kloss, Katie Holmes, Seth Meyers, Anna Wintour, Fran Lebowitz, Andre Leon Talley and fellow designer Calvin Klein, Herrera presented a collection that was both playful and conservative, bold and understated, colourful and muted – meaning she used her last show to feature the depth and versatility of her clothes.
The show started out with the basics – a white top with flowing sleeves and black wide-legged pants; a long, billowing black coat; a white coat with a flash of leopard fur on the sleeves. It then segued into more glamorous fare . There was a pink tuxedo outfit, a tulle pink and blue dress, and a black dress embellished with feathers. There were also several outfits that mimicked the designer’s own signature look – a crisp white collared shirt, coupled with a bold belt and colourful A-line skirts.
No more rules for de La Renta
At Oscar de la Renta, the storied label that epitomises luxury and refinement, designer Laura Kim has a new motto for her clients: “You’re not dressing up for your mothers anymore.”
Kim and her design partner, Fernando Garcia, are taking the company into the future with skill and craftsmanship (and great fabrics), but also with the view that fashion’s rules have changed forever. Or, as Garcia puts it: “There are no more rules.”
This means that for evening, an outfit can be both grand and casual at the same time. Many of the evening looks at their runway show epitomised this idea – for example, a long glittering skirt with embroidered sequins, perhaps in a ballgown shape, but topped with a simple sweater or very light top. The designers said their collection was inspired by a memory: A 2014 trip to the Cloisters, a Manhattan museum specialising in European medieval art and architecture. Their host: None other than de la Renta. Memories of that trip got Kim and Garcia looking at Elizabethan embroidery, and they were drawn to a tree-branch pattern that now appears on much of their new collection, for both daytime and evening looks.
Lauren heads for Jamaica
As the Olympic outfitter of Team USA, Ralph Lauren’s job is done in South Korea, so where to go next?
Under gloomy skies and intermittent sprinkles in New York, he headed for his Jamaica retreat in Montego Bay as inspiration for spring and summer collections for both men and women.
The clothes couldn’t have screamed Jamaica louder. They were nautical. They included the yellows and greens of the island country’s flag and regatta pennants, along with pops of red and blue in bold graphic designs. There were yachts on wide ties and, well, kind of all over.
And, as always, there was Ralph Lauren himself on the runway for his end-of-show walk and wave to guests that included Hilary Swank, Katie Holmes, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Rachel Brosnahan. AP
Panther lights up catwalk
Marvel Studios sponsored a small Black Pantherinspired presentation, Welcome to Wakanda, on Monday featuring designs by LaQuan Smith, Chromat, Wale Oyejide of the brand Ikire Jones, Fear of God and others, including the jewellery of Douriean Fletcher in a capsule collection. Fletcher said she was hired by the film’s costume designer, Ruth E. Carter, to create some pieces for the blockbuster after she met Carter through a mutual friend, actress CCH Pounder. Among Fletcher’s work in the film is a bold amethyst and 18-karat gold plate piece on a costume worn by Angela Bassett’s Queen Ramonda. Fletcher also hand pounded gold-plate armor pieces for the female warriors of the Dora Milaje. Oyejide did a men’s suit with a coat and scarf. One of his scarves made it to the movie, which he said shows off the nuances of people of colour.