Her­rera takes a bow as de La Renta, Ralph Lau­ren and Black Pan­ther show­case di­ver­sity

Khaleej Times - City Times - - FASHION -

Clas­sic styles on show as de­signer bids adieu

Carolina Her­rera has rep­re­sented re­fined, el­e­gant glam­our for decades, so it was fit­ting that she in­voked clas­sic styles as she de­liv­ered her fi­nal New York Fash­ion Week col­lec­tion as the de­signer of her self-ti­tled line. Mon­day’s event was held at the Mu­seum of Mod­ern Art – a fit­ting venue, given Her­rera’s out­sized con­tri­bu­tions to con­tem­po­rary fash­ion over her decades as a de­signer. But her col­lec­tion was time­less, not some­thing that could be rel­e­gated to one era. In front of a crowd that in­cluded Karlie Kloss, Katie Holmes, Seth Mey­ers, Anna Win­tour, Fran Le­bowitz, An­dre Leon Tal­ley and fel­low de­signer Calvin Klein, Her­rera pre­sented a col­lec­tion that was both play­ful and con­ser­va­tive, bold and un­der­stated, colour­ful and muted – mean­ing she used her last show to fea­ture the depth and ver­sa­til­ity of her clothes.

The show started out with the ba­sics – a white top with flow­ing sleeves and black wide-legged pants; a long, bil­low­ing black coat; a white coat with a flash of leop­ard fur on the sleeves. It then segued into more glam­orous fare . There was a pink tuxedo out­fit, a tulle pink and blue dress, and a black dress em­bel­lished with feath­ers. There were also sev­eral out­fits that mim­icked the de­signer’s own sig­na­ture look – a crisp white col­lared shirt, cou­pled with a bold belt and colour­ful A-line skirts.

No more rules for de La Renta

At Os­car de la Renta, the sto­ried la­bel that epit­o­mises lux­ury and re­fine­ment, de­signer Laura Kim has a new motto for her clients: “You’re not dress­ing up for your moth­ers any­more.”

Kim and her de­sign part­ner, Fer­nando Gar­cia, are tak­ing the com­pany into the fu­ture with skill and crafts­man­ship (and great fab­rics), but also with the view that fash­ion’s rules have changed for­ever. Or, as Gar­cia puts it: “There are no more rules.”

This means that for evening, an out­fit can be both grand and ca­sual at the same time. Many of the evening looks at their run­way show epit­o­mised this idea – for ex­am­ple, a long glit­ter­ing skirt with em­broi­dered se­quins, per­haps in a ball­gown shape, but topped with a sim­ple sweater or very light top. The de­sign­ers said their col­lec­tion was in­spired by a mem­ory: A 2014 trip to the Clois­ters, a Man­hat­tan mu­seum spe­cial­is­ing in Euro­pean me­dieval art and ar­chi­tec­ture. Their host: None other than de la Renta. Mem­o­ries of that trip got Kim and Gar­cia look­ing at El­iz­a­bethan em­broi­dery, and they were drawn to a tree-branch pat­tern that now ap­pears on much of their new col­lec­tion, for both day­time and evening looks.

Lau­ren heads for Ja­maica

As the Olympic out­fit­ter of Team USA, Ralph Lau­ren’s job is done in South Korea, so where to go next?

Un­der gloomy skies and in­ter­mit­tent sprin­kles in New York, he headed for his Ja­maica re­treat in Mon­tego Bay as in­spi­ra­tion for spring and sum­mer col­lec­tions for both men and women.

The clothes couldn’t have screamed Ja­maica louder. They were nau­ti­cal. They in­cluded the yel­lows and greens of the is­land coun­try’s flag and re­gatta pen­nants, along with pops of red and blue in bold graphic de­signs. There were yachts on wide ties and, well, kind of all over.

And, as al­ways, there was Ralph Lau­ren him­self on the run­way for his end-of-show walk and wave to guests that in­cluded Hi­lary Swank, Katie Holmes, Rosie Hunt­ing­ton-White­ley and Rachel Bros­na­han. AP

Pan­ther lights up cat­walk

Mar­vel Stu­dios spon­sored a small Black Pan­therin­spired pre­sen­ta­tion, Wel­come to Wakanda, on Mon­day fea­tur­ing de­signs by LaQuan Smith, Chro­mat, Wale Oye­jide of the brand Ikire Jones, Fear of God and oth­ers, in­clud­ing the jew­ellery of Douriean Fletcher in a cap­sule col­lec­tion. Fletcher said she was hired by the film’s cos­tume de­signer, Ruth E. Carter, to cre­ate some pieces for the block­buster af­ter she met Carter through a mu­tual friend, ac­tress CCH Pounder. Among Fletcher’s work in the film is a bold amethyst and 18-karat gold plate piece on a cos­tume worn by An­gela Bas­sett’s Queen Ra­monda. Fletcher also hand pounded gold-plate ar­mor pieces for the fe­male war­riors of the Dora Mi­laje. Oye­jide did a men’s suit with a coat and scarf. One of his scarves made it to the movie, which he said shows off the nu­ances of peo­ple of colour.

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