Bite of the Big Apple
The Manhattan Grill in Dubai’s Grand hyatt offers a slice of american fine Dining
Manhattan is a long, thin island, home to one of new York City’s five boroughs, a place of concrete canyons and an inimitable skyline. so as you settle into your table at Manhattan grill, you may be surprised to find yourself gazing over palm trees and a desert sunset. this is indeed an authentic Manhattan grill, only you’ll find it in the welcoming embrace of the grand hyatt hotel in Dubai.
the restaurant itself is set to the rear of the grand hyatt’s vast lobby, though the space it occupies is on a more human scale, cosy and intimate, with the welcome option of an outdoor terrace overlooking the gardens and sparkling skyline beyond.
service is a hallmark of american restaurants, and the Manhattan grill is a case in point. We were welcomed, recognised, shown to our table and presented with a glass of water even before the menu arrived. that menu is comprehensive and beguiling, comprising a selection of appetisers, salads and soups, then moving on to the main event, the grill. this is worthy of a section on its own, offering not one but three sources of beef—blackmore Wagyu, nebraskan beef and aberdeen angus 150-day grain-fed from the hartley Ranch in texas. these are offered in a range of cuts and sizes—tenderloin, sirloin, ribeye and even a mammoth tomahawk weighing in at around a kilo and requiring at least 40 minutes’ notice.
Following on from the grill section is a listing of mains, where you will find tempting selection of seafood, lobster, burgers, chicken and indulgent vegetarian options, plus a generous selection of sauces and side dishes.
My companion opted to start with the hokkaido scallops with pomegranate, broccoli and lime, whist i went for the octopus with creamy potato and chimichuri sauce. Both were excellent, her scallops quaveringly fresh and given bite by the lime dressing, my octopus skewered on lemongrass and achingly tender, perfectly accompanied by the unctuous mash. to get two such disparate dishes to the table cooked with matching precision speaks volumes of the skills in the kitchen.
and so it was with the mains. Mine was an 8oz Wagyu tenderloin cooked to the rare side of medium, hers a Wagyu short rib with a home-made BBQ sauce, spring onions and a hazelnut crumb topping. again the very different cooking styles were highlighted by the perfection of the results. My steak was served plain in all its bovine glory, unadorned on the plate but impeccably cooked and amply seasoned. My companion’s rib was equally impressive, a generous section of beef atop a Dan Dare-sized rib bone. Various accompaniments arrived, potatoes, sauces and grilled vegetables, but nothing was allowed to intrude into the presentation of the magnificent beef. i have only seen a steak so starkly served once before, and it was as impressive now as it was then.