Bite of the Big Ap­ple

The Man­hat­tan Grill in Dubai’s Grand hy­att of­fers a slice of amer­i­can fine Din­ing

Virtuozity - - Fine Dining -

Man­hat­tan is a long, thin is­land, home to one of new York City’s five bor­oughs, a place of con­crete canyons and an inim­itable sky­line. so as you set­tle into your ta­ble at Man­hat­tan grill, you may be sur­prised to find your­self gaz­ing over palm trees and a desert sun­set. this is in­deed an au­then­tic Man­hat­tan grill, only you’ll find it in the wel­com­ing em­brace of the grand hy­att ho­tel in Dubai.

the restau­rant it­self is set to the rear of the grand hy­att’s vast lobby, though the space it oc­cu­pies is on a more hu­man scale, cosy and in­ti­mate, with the wel­come op­tion of an out­door ter­race over­look­ing the gar­dens and sparkling sky­line be­yond.

ser­vice is a hall­mark of amer­i­can restau­rants, and the Man­hat­tan grill is a case in point. We were wel­comed, recog­nised, shown to our ta­ble and pre­sented with a glass of wa­ter even be­fore the menu ar­rived. that menu is com­pre­hen­sive and be­guil­ing, com­pris­ing a se­lec­tion of ap­pe­tis­ers, sal­ads and soups, then mov­ing on to the main event, the grill. this is wor­thy of a sec­tion on its own, of­fer­ing not one but three sources of beef—black­more Wagyu, ne­braskan beef and aberdeen an­gus 150-day grain-fed from the hart­ley Ranch in texas. th­ese are of­fered in a range of cuts and sizes—ten­der­loin, sir­loin, rib­eye and even a mam­moth tom­a­hawk weigh­ing in at around a kilo and re­quir­ing at least 40 min­utes’ no­tice.

Fol­low­ing on from the grill sec­tion is a list­ing of mains, where you will find tempt­ing se­lec­tion of seafood, lob­ster, burg­ers, chicken and in­dul­gent veg­e­tar­ian op­tions, plus a gen­er­ous se­lec­tion of sauces and side dishes.

My com­pan­ion opted to start with the hokkaido scal­lops with pome­gran­ate, broc­coli and lime, whist i went for the oc­to­pus with creamy potato and chimichuri sauce. Both were ex­cel­lent, her scal­lops qua­ver­ingly fresh and given bite by the lime dress­ing, my oc­to­pus skew­ered on lemon­grass and achingly ten­der, per­fectly ac­com­pa­nied by the unc­tu­ous mash. to get two such dis­parate dishes to the ta­ble cooked with match­ing pre­ci­sion speaks vol­umes of the skills in the kitchen.

and so it was with the mains. Mine was an 8oz Wagyu ten­der­loin cooked to the rare side of medium, hers a Wagyu short rib with a home-made BBQ sauce, spring onions and a hazel­nut crumb top­ping. again the very dif­fer­ent cook­ing styles were high­lighted by the per­fec­tion of the re­sults. My steak was served plain in all its bovine glory, un­adorned on the plate but im­pec­ca­bly cooked and am­ply sea­soned. My com­pan­ion’s rib was equally im­pres­sive, a gen­er­ous sec­tion of beef atop a Dan Dare-sized rib bone. Var­i­ous ac­com­pa­ni­ments ar­rived, pota­toes, sauces and grilled veg­eta­bles, but noth­ing was al­lowed to in­trude into the pre­sen­ta­tion of the mag­nif­i­cent beef. i have only seen a steak so starkly served once be­fore, and it was as im­pres­sive now as it was then.

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