911 Porsche World - - Practical Porsche -

I promised at the end of last month’s how-to – about Stom­ski Rac­ing’s ex­cel­lent gear-shift cou­pler and up­rated en­gine/trans­mis­sion mounts for those 911s with the 901 and 915 trans­mis­sion – to show how to fit a new gear-lever ‘gate’, in or­der to over­come the all too com­mon prob­lem of a bro­ken re­verse-gear lock-out pawl. Or the pawl’s tiny spring, to be more pre­cise.

So here we are. Part num­ber of the com­plete as­sem­bly – nei­ther the spring nor the pawl is avail­able sep­a­rately, and would in any case be a real faff to fit – is 911 424 063 04, and from Porsche it is cur­rently priced at £51.14 in­clud­ing VAT.

Fit­ting times will de­pend upon how easy it is to re­move and re­fit the gear-lever knob and gaiter (the knob in this 1981 SC had bro­ken and had sub­se­quently been glued on, and so would have to be re­fit­ted ac­cord­ingly) but based on the times recorded on my orig­i­nal dig­i­tal im­ages you – and cer­tainly an ex­pe­ri­enced Porsche tech­ni­cian – would strug­gle to take more than around 10–15 min­utes.

Points to note? Pri­mar­ily that there are two fairly strong springs push­ing up against the un­der­side of the left-hand side of the plate – they pro­vide the slight but nec­es­sary re­sis­tance you should feel as you move the lever over to the right for fifth and re­verse – and so you need to take care as you undo and re­move the two M6 se­cur­ing nuts and wash­ers.

Con­versely, the springs will nat­u­rally try to ‘es­cape’ as you push the new plate down over them, and you also need to en­sure that the lat­ter is po­si­tioned such that the two ver­ti­cal bars pass­ing through the springs are able to project into the match­ing rec­tan­gu­lar slots as the lever goes over to the right. (See pho­tos.) Even so, it’s a task that is prob­a­bly more dif­fi­cult to de­scribe than it is ac­tu­ally to do.

Tighten the M6 nuts to 15Nm – per­haps re­plac­ing their orig­i­nal spring wash­ers with the so-called wave wash­ers we looked at here in Tech­ni­cal Top­ics a month ago. (Or maybe fit some Ny­loc-style self-lock­ing nuts, plus wash­ers.) And fi­nally, of course, make sure once again that you can se­lect all five for­ward gears and re­verse, with the tab welded to the right-hand side of the shift lever pass­ing cor­rectly around the ver­ti­cal lugs on the base­plate. See the pho­tos be­low.

All pretty straight­for­ward, though – and a big step to­wards a fool­proof gear change in your older 911. Thanks to Robin Hay­ers at BS Mo­tor­sport (01296 658422; www.bs­mo­tor­sport.co.uk). PW

Usu­ally the only prob­lem with the old de­vice is a bro­ken pawl spring, but that would be too much trou­ble to fit sep­a­rately. Make sure each of the two main springs is lo­cated on its rec­tan­gu­lar-sec­tion cen­tral ‘blade’, and that those are them­selves able to project into the cut-outs in the now se­cured base­plate as the gear lever is moved to the right

This gear lever – like many – has been re­paired at some time. Fi­nal se­quence shows how tag on side of lever in­ter­acts with match­ing tags on base­plate and spring-loaded pawl to al­low fast and safe move­ment from fourth to fifth, and back to fourth. Re­verse can be se­lected only after mov­ing lever across the gate in neu­tral and then again to the right

Ar­guably the best £50 or so you will spend on your pre-g50 911. Gear change will func­tion with­out re­verse-gear lock lock-out pawl, but there is al­ways a dan­ger a down­shift from fifth to fourth goes badly wrong. To fit new base­plate, take off gear-lever knob and gaiter, and then undo the two M6 nuts. Be ready for the two springs to try to ‘es­cape’

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