18, North Or­bital Com­mer­cial Park, Naps­bury Lane, St Al­bans AL1 1XB Tel: 01727 866075

911 Porsche World - - Practical Porsche -

On the sub­ject of oil, Jaz rely on Mo­bil – like Porsche them­selves – but for air cooled en­gines opt for semi-syn­thetic Su­per 10W40, a choice I agree with: the tol­er­ances of older engi­neer­ing, par­tic­u­larly the oil pump, de­mand a ‘fuller’ oil, and not the fully syn­thetic 0W-some­thing rec­om­mended for mod­ern power units.

The Dansk si­lencer was a per­fect fit, once War­ren had got a grinder to the rusty old bolts on the mount­ing flange with the in­ter­me­di­ate box. Whilst the box was be­ing fit­ted and we were down­ing our own lu­bri­cant (tea, milk but no sugar please) Euro Car Parts were do­ing what they do best and de­liv­er­ing a GKN box con­tain­ing all the bits needed for the drive shaft boot re­place­ment that had only been ordered an hour pre­vi­ously. The back plate was out of stock and so would come an­other day.

Chang­ing the boot is not as easy as it sounds. The drive shaft needs to be taken from the car (un­bolt the lower damper mount first) and the in­ner c.v. joint, which bolts to the flange on the dif­fer­en­tial, re­moved so that the outer boot can be slid off along the shaft and the new one fit­ted. It’s not pos­si­ble to sep­a­rate the out­side c.v. joint which car­ries the splined axle be­cause this is fric­tion welded to the shaft on Car­rera 3.2 models – al­though it does un­bolt on ear­lier cars.

Sounds sim­ple, eh? Only prob­lem is that a c.v. joint that’s been tight on a drive shaft for 30 years tends to be a bit of nui­sance to re­move. With the shaft in the vice on the work bench a fairly large ham­mer had to be brought into ac­tion. But all went smoothly as the pics show.

The brake back plate ar­rived a few days later and was duly fit­ted on a re­turn trip to Jaz. The disc, hub and brake caliper have to be re­moved to bolt the new plate to the cast­ing that car­ries the stub axle. The brake caliper can be sim­ply tied back out of the way, there be­ing no need to dis­con­nect the hose which would en­tail bleed­ing the brakes on re­fit­ting. Whilst the wheel and disc were out of the way I took the op­por­tu­nity to knock out the mud that col­lects on the oil cooler pipes that run in­side the wheel arch – leave it there and when it’s wet it will cor­rode the pipes.

All done then, thanks to War­ren and Steve. Not a DIY job I’m afraid, but the work­shop at Jaz is so clean and tidy (eat lunch off the floor etc) I felt I needed to do my bit so swept up the crud that fell from the wheel arch be­fore I left. PW

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