PUT YOUR FAITH IN A FLOAT­ING CARP BAIT

Launch a sur­face at­tack for ex­plo­sive sum­mer sport

Angling Times (UK) - - TIPS & TACTICS -

N hot and sul­try days when big carp seem re­luc­tant to do any­thing other than drift about just be­low the sur­face, there is only one rig to reach for – the con­troller rig.

Of course, it is pos­si­ble to present float­ing baits to carp us­ing sim­ple freel­in­ing tac­tics, but such an ap­proach re­stricts how far you can cast.

In­cor­po­rat­ing a con­troller float into the rig means any sur­face­feed­ing carp within 50 yards is within range… in the­ory at least! This can be at­tached in a num­ber of ways, but one of the sim­plest is to thread a rub­ber float stop up the line, fol­lowed by your sur­face con­troller, then a rub­ber bead, and fi­nally a swivel. To the other end of the swivel you then need to tie your hook­link, which should be at least 4ft long, prefer­ably closer to 6ft, and made from 8lb-10lb mono. Do not use fluoro­car­bon, as that will sink, and for this rig to work ef­fi­ciently it’s im­por­tant that the hook­link floats. Many carpers do this by rub­bing the hook­link with Mu­cilin or some other form of grease to help it float.

To com­plete the set-up, a rig Whether you choose to use a ‘mixer’ dog bis­cuit, a pop-up boilie or a fake bait, it should be hair­rigged tight to the back of a strong, sharp size 10-12 hook, prefer­ably with a wide gape. Hooks not up to the task will straighten out, lead­ing to lost fish. boom should be pushed over the swivel at the top of the hook­link to help pre­vent tan­gles, with a size 10 or 12 hair-rigged to the other end.

All that re­mains is to mount a hook­bait on to the hair, the most pop­u­lar of­fer­ing be­ing good old­fash­ioned Chum mix­ers. Th­ese are cheap to use and they cat­a­pult out quite well as loosefeed, but al­ter­na­tive hook­baits in­clude pop-up boilies, fake mix­ers and large float­ing pel­lets. It’s vi­tal that the carp are com­pet­ing for your loosefed baits be­fore you cast out a baited rig. Once they be­gin fight­ing for the free of­fer­ings among them­selves, they drop their guard and are far eas­ier to catch. Pa­tience is key with this tac­tic! The sim­plest and safest way to at­tach a con­troller float is to trap it be­tween a rub­ber float stop and the buf­fer bead hous­ing the hook­link swivel. A rub­ber rig sleeve or boom should be pushed over the other end of the swivel to keep tan­gles to a min­i­mum.

Fish­ing for carp ‘off the top’ can be an in­cred­i­bly ex­cit­ing sum­mer method, pro­vided you get a few of the ba­sics right. First, as with so many forms of fish­ing, this tac­tic re­lies on build­ing the carp’s con­fi­dence be­fore you in­tro­duce a baited rig. This means cat­a­pult­ing out free­bies and get­ting the fish feed­ing and com­pet­ing for the loosefeed. The longer you leave it, the quicker you’ll get a bite once the baited rig is in­tro­duced.

Once the time has come to cast out, it’s im­por­tant to over­cast any feed­ing carp by five yards or so, and then draw the rig back into the hot area. Fail­ure to do so could re­sult in the carp be­ing spooked and your chances ru­ined. You can free­line for carp with float­ing baits, but us­ing a con­troller helps you to cast the dis­tance re­quired to the feed­ing fish, and gives a vis­i­ble in­di­ca­tion of when the hook­bait has been taken. As soon as the or­ange tip dives un­der, strike!

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