Cre­ate spec­tac­u­lar waves in your gar­den

Buckinghamshire Advertiser - - GREEN SPACES -

pen­e­trate them and they drink an aw­ful lot so in a heat wave they need wa­ter­ing twice a day.

They’re lit­tle drama queens. They wilt dramatically in a day, but don’t fret. By putting them un­der a drip­ping tap, in the shade, you’ll re­vive them. If this doesn’t work then you can re­sort to chop­ping them back and giv­ing them a good feed – they re­ally do bounce back. Re­mov­ing the dead crispy flow­ers pro­moted good growth and please prune ‘bits’ off them ev­ery week, just a snip here and there won’t be no­ticed in their mane of fo­liage but keeps them from get­ting leggy and ugly on top.

Petu­nias are ac­tu­ally great in dry con­di­tions if they are planted straight into the ground as they have re­ally long roots which get down be­low the wa­ter ta­bles - but just be cau­tious in pots and bas­kets. We planted up some crates for a wed­ding re­cently and paired them with white gera­ni­ums, neme­sia and floaty tall cos­mos for a stunning show.

All th­ese plants are avail­able at the nurs­ery.

Why not join us for a bar­be­cue and mu­si­cal ex­trav­a­ganza in aid of Macmil­lan Can­cer Sup­port on Sun­day, May 10? Tick­ets avail­able from the farm shop, just call 01753 662907.

Right, a planted wed­ding ar­range­ment at Pinewood Nurs­eries off two to three weeks be­fore plant­ing.

They can be hard­ened off in a cold frame or sim­ply moved out­side into a sunny, shel­tered po­si­tion dur­ing the day and then brought back in­side at night.

For new ten­der plants which are al­ready in the ground but need some pro­tec­tion, cloches are al­ways a good idea and can be re­moved dur­ing the day when the tem­per­a­tures rise.

Pro­tect new shoots and fruit tree blos­som with hor­ti­cul­tural fleece and cover plants in an un­heated green­house with news­pa­per.

If spring frosts have af­fected ten­der young growth, caus­ing scorch­ing and pale brown patches to ap­pear be­tween the leaf veins, of­ten on the ex­posed and top edges of the plant, don’t give up just yet as the plant may still be alive.

Many plants can be sur­pris­ingly re­silient and may well re­ju­ve­nate from dor­mant buds at or be­low soil level. This takes time so re­cov­ery may not be seen un­til early sum­mer. If the plant is of high value or it is not es­sen­tial to fill the gap, con­sider leav­ing the dam­aged plant in the ground un­til mid-sum­mer. If no re-growth has ap­peared by then, re­place the plant.

If you want to plant up hang­ing bas­kets early with young plants, make sure you take the bas­kets un­der cover at night, keep­ing them in a shel­tered porch or sim­i­lar area. Troughs and pa­tio tubs which you want to plant up with vul­ner­a­ble plants should also be treated sim­i­larly, or cov­ered at night with hor­ti­cul­tural fleece.

Frost prob­lems are of­ten made worse where plants face the morn­ing sun, as this causes them to de­frost quickly, rup­tur­ing their cell walls. Pe­ri­ods of cold, frosty weather dur­ing April and May can also kill blos­som and dam­age fruit.

Camel­lia and mag­no­lia are par­tic­u­larly vul­ner­a­ble and can be ru­ined in a sin­gle frost.

Avoid plant­ing ten­der plants in frost pock­ets, which tend to be at the low­est point in a gar­den, as cold air and frost al­ways de­scend and set­tle at the low­est point. In­stead, plant them in a shel­tered spot, un­der large trees and shrubs or against walls, to give them some heat and pro­tec­tion dur­ing the win­ter.

And don’t give up just yet if your plants suc­cumb to frost – if you wait till early sum­mer you may see some signs of growth un­der­neath the dam­aged parts and can cut back the dead growth to give the new growth a chance to catch up.

Don’t let frost kill your cab­bages

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