TONY BROOKS

‘If your pump starts run­ning more fre­quently when no taps are run­ning, it in­di­cates a pres­sure loss’

Canal Boat - - Insulation -

Tech­ni­cal Con­sul­tant IF YOUR WA­TER pump has stopped cy­cling but it once did and noth­ing has changed, it could be an in­ter­nal mini-pump fail­ure, but first check for block­ages in the sup­ply to the pump.

Most mod­ern pumps have a strainer on the in­let pipe that needs check­ing for de­bris once a year. It might also be worth pok­ing some­thing down the sup­ply pipe into the tank, es­pe­cially on mild steel tanks where the out­let pipe spigot can rust in­ter­nally and par­tially block the in­let. Such tanks can also shed rust, black­ing or ce­ment-wash that blocks the strainer or builds up over the out­let.

If your pump starts run­ning more fre­quently when no taps are run­ning, it in­di­cates a pres­sure loss. First check that the calori­fier pres­sure re­lief valve isn’t drib­bling, then look for pipe leaks. Fi­nally, the pump valves might be al­low­ing pres­sure to leak back to the tank. Be­fore fit­ting a new pump, try putting a plumber’s flap type non-re­turn valve be­tween the tank and pump.

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