STRIPPING THE ENGINE
With the engine 1 suspended by an engine crane, we could strip it down at waist-height to save on bending over and potentially injuring our backs. At this stage, we couldn’t secure the engine and gearbox to an engine stand because they would need to be separated.
After backing-off 2 the spring-loaded auto-tensioner for the auxiliary drivebelt using a 15mm ring spanner, the drivebelt was removed and discarded. Next, the alternator was detached – it’s secured with 18mm bolts and a 13mm nut for the wiring.
The front 3 crankshaft pulley is held by four Ribe 45 bolts, which need to be undone with a specific bit. It looks similar to a Torx, but isn’t exactly the same, so there’s a risk of slipping and damaging the head of the bolt if the wrong bit is used.
The upper front 4 timing belt cover is secured with a series of Ribe 30 bolts. The engine mount below should also be detached by undoing the four 18mm bolts. We could now see the water pump and realised it’s the cause of one of the coolant leaks.
The engine loom 5 was detached from the engine and stored safely in the boot area. We had managed to extract the engine last month with the engine harness attached, but now it was time to fully remove it.
The diesel 6 particulate filter is hidden behind this heatshield. Before the heatshield could be removed, we had to extract an exhaust gas temperature sensor unit. The Lambda sensor above it could remain in place.
With the heatshield 7 removed, several 13mm and 18mm bolts were undone to release the DPF from where it’s mounted to the side of the engine block and clamped to the turbocharger. We could already see a major problem.
Judging by the 8 welding marks on our DPF, it has been illegally modified. We suspect the innards have been removed and it’s possible the ECU has been remapped. We cannot refit this DPF and must replace it with one that has not been tampered with.
More parts were 9 removed from the same side of the engine as the DPF. First, three 13mm bolts for the power steering pump were undone and the pump extracted. It appears to be in good condition, so we will reuse it.
The aircon pump 10 is a little bulkier to remove because it’s attached to a mount, which can be detached at the same time. All of this assembly is secured with four 13mm bolts and several 15mm bolts.
The engine 11 oil dipstick was straightforward to extract, once the 10mm bolt securing its mounting bracket to the side of the engine block had been undone. A gentle twist and pull of the sleeving helped to release it.
There was no 12 point in timing up the engine because it was going to be stripped down to a bare block. The cylinderhead can remain complete, but the water pump, tensioner and idler pulley will all need to be renewed and then the timing reset.
The starter 13 motor is secured to the side of the engine block and the bellhousing with 13mm nuts and bolts. Once undone, this could be manoeuvred out and stored in the boot of the Insignia.
A selection 14 of breather hoses and a canister were detached and removed from the side of the engine block. The oil filter housing and oil cooler could then be accessed and extracted by undoing the 15mm bolts.
The injectors have 15 to be extracted to remove the cam cover and access the cylinderhead bolts. After detaching some of the fuel pipes and undoing the bolts securing the injectors, we carefully levered them out and, luckily, none of them were awkward to remove.
The cam cover is 16 actually a camshaft carrier, with the camshafts inside it. After undoing 18 13mm bolts, the complete assembly was lifted up and away, then stored safely in the boot of the car.
The cylinderhead 17 is secured by 10 Torx T60 bolts. After slackening them with a breaker bar, we quickly wound them out using an impact driver and discarded them. The head was removed with the turbocharger and many other ancillaries still attached.
The gearbox 18 bellhousing is secured to the engine block with Torx E14 and E18 bolts. Once all of these had been undone, we separated the two components and lowered them onto the workshop floor.
The clutch and 19 dual mass flywheel were removed. The clutch looked relatively new, but there was very little resistance in the DMF, suggesting it hadn’t been renewed at the same time.
Finally, the 20 19mm bolt for the crankshaft timing cog was undone and extracted, followed by the sump and crankshaft, before sending the block, crank and pistons to our local machine shop.