SURF­ING IS ALL ABOUT THE SLIDE

Them French sorts call the slid­ing sports like surf­ing, snow­board­ing and skat­ing the 'glisse' sports.

Carve - - INTRODUCTION - Sharpy Ed­i­tor

Which is one of those ono­matopoeia words. One that makes the noise of what it rep­re­sents, the im­i­ta­tion of a sound. It's the sound of wa­ter com­ing off your rail. Of pow­der whizzing un­der your skis. Glisssssssse.

This is surf­ing dis­tilled to its essence as it has been since the days of wooden olos and alaia boards. A rider pro­pelled at speed. It's the same thrill of roller­coast­ers and jump­ing off stuff. Dick­ing about with grav­ity is fun. Goos­ing the in­ner ear bal­ance sen­sors. Ac­cel­er­a­tion and speed do good things to our grey mat­ter. It re­leases the happy juice.

Fly­ing down the line of a fine walled up wave is a thrill. From the first fum­bling shore­ward too­tle in the white­wa­ter where you man­aged to stand up co­her­ently for more than a se­cond in some sem­blance of non-wind­milling con­trol to stylishly hooning down an over­head wall years down the line with a big grin on your face the rush is the same. It's what keeps us com­ing back. The need, the crav­ing, the urge for the glisse.

This is where the 'sport' of surf­ing ain't a sport. If you're blaz­ing down a shim­mer­ing, In­done­sian salty can­vas at dawn there's no sport. It's pure self ex­pres­sion. Turn. Don't do a turn. No one's judg­ing. No one's scor­ing. If you want to trim the whole way hold­ing your line through the power with­out swoops, turns or stunts then you're surf­ing as much as the next guy load­ing and un­load­ing his en­ergy with bot­tom and top turns.

Just go­ing fast is fun. Soul arch­ing is called that for a rea­son. As soon as you start judg­ing surf­ing you re­move the fun. And surf­ing is all about fun. Never for­get that.

In this is­sue we talk to a bunch of folk that ap­pre­ci­ate the glide more than most: Bri­tain's cur­rent crop of world-class long­board­ers. To a man they ad­vo­cate rid­ing what­ever board suits the waves on of­fer. Be it an old-school log, twinny or hand plane. Get­ting your glisse on what­ever the weather is key.

So dive into this is­sue, en­joy the wis­dom and stun­ning im­agery con­tained within. Get in­spired then go get your slid­ing fix.

PHOTO: SHIELDSY

D-bah from the cur­rently in vogue eye in the sky...

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