THE QUEST FOR ETERNAL STOKE
WISDOM FROM ONE OF THE TRUE LEGENDS OF BRITISH SURFING
If you have a look around British surfing, it is pretty hard to find a more stoked guy than Llangennith's Pete “PJ” Jones. Owner of PJ’S Surf Shop, former British surf team member, he started surfing at Langland in 1967 and has pretty much been in the water every day since. But what are his secrets, and can they help you?
1. Try and do a little bit of yoga every day. All the elementary moves!
2. Live close to the sea where the waves are that you enjoy riding.
3. Marry a good one. Who knows your other wife is the sea.
4. Do a job that is part of your passion in life also.
5. No matter whether the waves are perfect or small and choppy onshore days, get in there as much as possible.
6. Whether you are really good at it or not doesn’t matter.
7. When you reach OAP division stay younger by the day from the neck up.
8. Let the search for waves be more important than the chase for money.
9. Listen to the Gallagher and Lyle song: Stay Young Keep Your Wheels in Motion. If that doesn’t give you the stoke, give me a ring!
10. Understand that eternal stoke is a natural high, free of charge!
Aloha to all surfers.