Neil Mccal­lum of The Triples Work­shop in Wake­field de­bunks a few myths and gives you a few tips for run­ning an H2 to­day

Classic Bike (UK) - - Kawasaki H2 -

H2s get a bad rap for sup­posed han­dling in­ad­e­qua­cies. Fit­ting mod­ern tyres like Avon Road­rid­ers trans­forms the han­dling. They’re avail­able in orig­i­nal im­pe­rial sizes, so the pro­file of the tyre is cor­rect for the H2. H2 gear­box parts are get­ting scarce. Check for pos­i­tive en­gage­ment and get a test ride to make sure the ’box doesn’t drop out of gear un­der load. You can fit an H1 gear­box – though you’ll also need the H1 outer clutch cover and kick­start shaft. Replica exhausts for H2-BS (and Cs) are now avail­able – pre­vi­ously you had to re­pair and re­plate your orig­i­nals or go for an ex­pan­sion cham­ber type sys­tem. H2ex (h2ex. pro­duce an ex­cel­lent pat­tern sys­tem for the B and C at £1410 for a full sys­tem in­clud­ing clamps; all parts are avail­able sep­a­rately. The mid­dle pis­ton/ bore runs hot­ter, but a lot of seizures back in the day were due to own­ers fit­ting mud­flaps to the front mud­guard to keep rain and road spray off the cen­tre pot. If you’re run­ning flat out and run onto re­serve, the cen­tre pot can seize, too. The H2’s carbs have a habit of surg­ing. Stan­dard nee­dles have a three-stage ta­per, but you can get nee­dles with a five-stage ta­per that help the prob­lem. Use gen­uine Mikuni nee­dles, though. Dou­ble-lipped gear­box seals sold by most bear­ing fac­tors can leak. Use good qual­ity pat­tern seals made for the H2.

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