Classic Car Weekly (UK) - - Buying & Selling -

1 BODY The shell is made of GRP (thin­ner on A-spec cars). Rip­ples and poor panel gaps sug­gest dodgy re­pairs, ageing or crash dam­age. The chas­sis cor­rodes around the cross mem­bers, front sus­pen­sion tur­rets and steer­ing box mounts.

2 EN­GINE Re­place­ment al­loy cylin­der heads are no longer avail­able, so check coolant con­di­tion and level, and look for leaks. Oil should be around 40psi while driv­ing. Blue ex­haust smoke is likely as a re­sult of worn valve guides. 3 TRANS­MIS­SION Man­u­als are prefer­able to au­to­mat­ics, which can suf­fer oil leaks and high re­build costs. Lis­ten out for a noisy rear axle which can de­velop clunks.

4 IN­TE­RIOR Re­plac­ing trim and dash equip­ment is all pos­si­ble but costly. Check for signs of wa­ter ingress (past or present) – cor­ro­sion, stains and dam­age to electrics. Cor­roded elec­tri­cal ter­mi­nals are a pain so be sure to check the con­di­tion of the wiring loom. 5 RUN­NING GEAR Orig­i­nal steer­ing is by worm gear, though rack-and-pin­ion con­ver­sions are avail­able, and the Gir­ling brakes can also be given a servo con­ver­sion, so get a grasp of what’s orig­i­nal and what might have been mod­ernised. The front trun­nions need reg­u­lar greas­ing and can be very ex­pen­sive to re­place if they seize or wear out.

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