BUY­ING TIPS

Classic Car Weekly (UK) - - Driving -

1 CLASSY CHAS­SIS

Though strong, the 100/4’s chas­sis can hide rust very well and needs to be in­spected closely. Check the main chas­sis rails for ev­i­dence of ac­ci­dent dam­age or poor weld­ing. Out­rig­gers are prone to rot too; and don’t for­get that the body is welded to the chas­sis, so the two can’t be eas­ily sep­a­rated as would be the case with, for ex­am­ple, a Tri­umph TR2.

2 DENT MY PRIDE

The body­work is largely alu­minium, which is vul­ner­a­ble to dents. Ex­am­ine the shell for signs of ac­ci­dent dam­age or filler and for rot where alu­minium meets steel, and the bot­toms of the A- and B-posts. Check body align­ment and make sure the doors open and close eas­ily.

3 EN­GINE AN­TICS

The four-cylin­der en­gines are tough, but prone to oil leaks, silted-up wa­ter­ways and wa­ter seep­age be­tween the cylin­der head and block.

4 STEER­ING & SUS­PEN­SION

The cam and peg steer­ing boxes can leak oil (check the level reg­u­larly) and wear. The lever arm shock ab­sorbers can also leak and work loose on their mount­ings. The rear axle is also prone to oil leaks, though re­plac­ing the seal is a rel­a­tively easy job, for­tu­nately. Prob­lems with over­drive tend to be re­stricted to the so­le­noid or associated electrics.

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