HOW TO BAG THE BEST DEAL

Classic Car Weekly (UK) - - Buying & Selling -

1 CHECK FOR RUST

The KR200’s uni­body con­struc­tion com­prises four main sec­tions. The floors are prone to rot­ting, par­tic­u­larly in the front-left cor­ner (check un­der any mat­ting), like­wise the area of the bulk­head around the brake servo. An ex­pir­ing canopy will be fid­dly to re­place.

2 TRIM & IN­TE­RIOR

The rub­ber floor mat and vinyl seats can be re­trimmed af­ford­ably, and the 12v electrics are pretty sim­ple too, but test ev­ery­thing just to be sure. Watch for signs of wa­ter ingress.

3 POWERTRAIN

En­gine and trans­mis­sion are al­most one, the se­quen­tial gear­box sit­ting in the crank case. Test top gear, which can slip out if the unit is badly worn. Be­ing a two-stroke, a lit­tle blue smoke is nor­mal, but lis­ten for grum­bles from the bot­tom end. Check that the cas­ing isn’t dam­aged. If the drive chain is slack, that sug­gests wear.

4 SUS­PEN­SION & STEER­ING

The rear sus­pen­sion has a sin­gle trail­ing arm. The front uses a lower trans­verse arm and rub­ber ‘springs’. Check for vague han­dling in­di­cat­ing per­ish­ing rub­ber, and use a pry bar to lo­cate the cul­prit. In­spect the dampers for any leaks.

5 WHEELS & BRAKES

Trailer tyres are in­fe­rior to the well-re­garded Hei­de­naus. The small disc brakes should be ca­pa­ble of in­duc­ing lock-up. Look for leaks at the wheel cylin­ders.

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