5 ways to make it bet­ter

Classic Car Weekly (UK) - - Buying & Selling -

OUT, DaM air 1

Later 240s had front air dams fit­ted as stan­dard. If you value orig­i­nal­ity, you prob­a­bly won’t want to put one on an older 1970s ma­chine, but they do im­prove the looks and help with aero­dy­nam­ics and fuel ef­fi­ciency, nei­ther of which you get too much of with a 240. The dams can be found for both alu­minium- and plas­tic-bumpered cars, al­though you may need to search hard.

THe wHeel THiNG 2

These Volvos were in pro­duc­tion from the era of plain steel wheels (14in) through to al­loys (14 and 15in). So you have quite a few choices if you’re not happy with your stan­dard items, in­clud­ing the hand­some five-spoke Virgo al­loys found on 1980s GTs, GLTs and Tur­bos. 740 and 940 wheels will also go straight on.

wiND­iNG UP 3

If you can find a donor car, then it’s rel­a­tively sim­ple to in­stall power win­dows in place of man­ual ones. The mo­tor reg­u­la­tors should just bolt in place of the original man­ual ones, al­though you may have to come up with an al­ter­na­tive so­lu­tion for mount­ing the switches on the dash if you don’t want to re­place the driver’s door armrest as well.

eN­GiNe 4


Fit­ting a high-per­for­mance camshaft gives a lit­tle more pep; given that cams can be a weaker point on 240s, it makes sense to do so if you need to re­place the cam. An en­gine block from a larger ca­pac­ity, later car will also bring per­for­mance ben­e­fits

Brace yOUr­selF 5

Some GTs came with a front sus­pen­sion brace as stan­dard, which you should be able to fit to all 1979 and later mod­els to im­prove han­dling. Lower strut braces and thicker anti-roll bars can also be adopted for fur­ther firm­ness. 240 es­tates have stiffer rear springs than sa­loons, for any­one wish­ing to ex­plore that op­tion.

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