WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Classic Car Weekly (UK) - - BUYING & SELLING -

CHECK IT ALL STILL WORKS

En­sure that the four-wheel drive sys­tem en­gages prop­erly, and watch for re­cal­ci­trant gear changes or jump­ing out of gear. Oil leaks from the ‘box and axles are com­mon but should be mi­nor on a cared-for ex­am­ple. Early 1.6 petrol en­gine aside (re­build­ing one costs £5-6k), parts are easy to find but check for ex­haust smoke and a sludged cool­ing sys­tem. The wealth of Landie ex­per­tise out there means there’s lit­tle to fear, me­chan­i­cally.

IN­SPECT THE JOINTS

There are nu­mer­ous joints in the driv­e­line, so spend time check­ing for ex­ces­sive wear and play. Same goes for the sus­pen­sion, and watch for cracked and cor­roded springs and rusty mount­ing points. Dam­aged or pit­ted front swivel hubs shouldn’t be ig­nored and you should bud­get a few hun­dred pounds to re­place both sides. Sort ex­ces­sively sloppy steer­ing with a re­con­di­tioned box for around £400. And check for worn or seized brakes, although over­haul parts are cheap.

PROD THAT CHAS­SIS!

The big­gest worry is ter­mi­nal cor­ro­sion of the bulk­head and chas­sis, and sort­ing ei­ther in­volves sub­stan­tial labour and cash out­lay. Outrig­gers and body mount­ing points need thor­ough in­ves­ti­ga­tion, and watch for rusted steel door frames and gal­vanic cor­ro­sion where steel meets the Birmabright pan­els. Only the most orig­i­nal ex­am­ples fetch top money; does the one you’re look­ing at con­tain SII/SIII bits? Check the prove­nance with the help of an ex­pert.

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