World on a plate

Jack Stein’s new cook­book brings a flavour of Corn­wall to the four cor­ners of the world. Here’s one of his recipes to whet your ap­petite

Cornwall Life - - FLAVOURS OF CORNWALL -

Sin­ga­pore, in many ways, is where it all re­ally be­gan for me. Our fam­ily had trav­elled in Europe and eaten oys­ters and other fruits de mer in Brit­tany and be­yond but in 1985, on a trip to Aus­tralia when I was five, my love of seafood re­ally took off. On a stopover in Sin­ga­pore we went, as usual, to a night mar­ket and that’s where I first saw and tasted chilli crab. Maybe it was the jet lag, maybe the un­be­liev­able hu­mid­ity, but some­thing in the ex­pe­ri­ence opened my senses. I knew crabs, but not like th­ese. Those watch­ing me in the mar­ket might have been con­fused to see a small, pale, gin­ger-haired kid look­ing per­plexed by his sen­sory over­load, but in fact I was be­ing se­duced by the won­der­ful flavours that the crab dish had to of­fer. Ever since I have found the com­bi­na­tion of eat­ing Asian food at 11pm while jet-lagged to be par­adise – and I owe it all to this dish!

My fa­ther’s ver­sion of chilli crab uses brown crab, which is far fuller­flavoured than the mud crabs used in Sin­ga­pore. My own recipe is sim­i­lar to his but with a few tweaks – a clas­sic but with just a lit­tle twist.

Ex­tract taken from Jack Stein’s World on a Plate (Ab­so­lute Press, £26) out now

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