What to drink this week
Make these German whites the last of the summer wine, enthuses Harry Eyres
Late summer seems to me the ideal time to sip German Rieslings, preferably in a garden: they make the perfect aperitif for an alfresco meal, but the drier styles are also wonderfully versatile food wines.
Why you should be drinking them
A Riesling revival has been under way for some time now, but much of the focus has been on wines from Australia (and I love Clare Valley Riesling), New Zealand and Austria —anywhere other than Riesling’s true and original homeland in the valleys of the Mosel, Saar, Rhine and Nahe. The wines from the steep slopes above those rivers are still the most exquisite, piquant and nuanced Rieslings of all; they offer remarkable value compared to other top wines.
What to drink
Behind the ordinary-sounding name of Justerini & Brooks Dry Riesling NV (£10; www.justerinis.com) is one of the Rheingau’s best producers, August Kesseler; this has classic Rheingau minerality, length and saltiness, together with refreshing appley fruit. Very versatile. Higher up the scale, also from the Rheingau, is Robert Weil’s intensely limey, fine and steely Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2014 (right, £22.50; www.justerinis.com). However, these wines are babies: the very best German Rieslings I’ve drunk recently have come from the 1994 vintage, still intensely fresh and transparent. You may not find any of the Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 1994 from Mönchhof (I have one bottle left), but you can acquire the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1994 from the legendary J. J. Prüm (£74.50; www. bbr.com). Not cheap, but worth every penny.