Magic with mush­rooms

From sautée­ing slimy wood ble­wits with gar­lic and cream to shap­ing tem­pura para­sols, my­col­o­gist John Wright knows all the tricks for cook­ing cham­pion champignon dishes

Country Life Every Week - - In The Garden -

AY I as­sume you know that some mush­rooms will have you spend­ing time in a small room con­tem­plat­ing your folly and that 25 will cheer­fully kill you? Good. All will be well. Here, I will men­tion only fungi that are easy to recog­nise; most are un­mis­take­able. Re­ally.

Let us put mor­bid con­cerns aside for the mo­ment and con­tem­plate in­stead some of the many ways in which wild mush­rooms may be cooked. I’ve al­ways been a con­ser­va­tive when it comes to pre­par­ing fungi—

Ma quick fry-up in but­ter—but ex­per­i­men­ta­tion and the in­spi­ra­tion of oth­ers has shown me that a well-bal­anced dish can en­hance, rather than mask, the flavour of th­ese in­com­pa­ra­ble trea­sures. And mush­rooms, be­ing one of the umami in­gre­di­ents, can en­hance the flavour of an en­tire dish.

Al­though the dif­fer­ence in flavour be­tween mush­rooms is mostly sub­tle, it’s the tex­ture that re­ally guides the cook. They can be soft and crumbly, soft and rub­bery, fi­brous or a lit­tle slip­pery/slimy (in a good way). The slim­i­est of all mush­rooms

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