What to drink this week
2014 red Burgundy
In early to mid autumn, the days are crisper and cooler, but not bitingly cold, wild mushrooms are there for the taking, the smoke of bonfires tinges the air and partridge and pheasant are plentiful as grouse become scarcer. Which is the perfect grape variety to echo and match the evocative scents and flavours of this season? It has to be the gamey, smokey, mushroomy Pinot Noir, which still finds its most hauntingly beautiful expressions on the C™te dõor in Burgundy.
This gamey red is the perfect accompaniment to crisp autumn days, says Harry Eyres
Why you should be drinking it
Burgundy has had some good to excellent vintages recently. Much anticipation attends the 2015 harvest, brought in under perfect conditions, but 2014 turned out pretty well, after flirting with disaster during a wet, cool July and first half of August. Fine weather in September, as so often, saved the day. The best wines are classic Burgundies: pure and not especially deep in colour, fresh and long.
What to drink
Because of the excitement around 2015, prices for 2014 village and even premier cru wines seem reasonable. At least, the serious and canny buyers at Waitrose have come up with some good-value winners. I very much liked the Chorey-l•sbeaune 2014 (£17.49; www.waitrose. com) from Joseph Drouhin, lightish in colour, but with super C™te de Beaune style and elegance. Its 2014 Rully (right, £16.49; www.waitrose.com) is a little sturdier with attractive, sweet fruit. Better still is Santenay Premier Cru Maladi•re 2014 from Domaine Lucien Muzard (£21.49; www. waitrose.com): once again, medium-weight balance and elegance are keynotes, with ripe fruit and superb length.