What to drink this week

Bur­gundy 2015: the reds

Country Life Every Week - - Town & Country Notebook -

The talk of the town is all about the 2015 vin­tage in Bur­gundy. Af­ter three years when the crop was dev­as­tated in places by frost and hail, 2015 was the vin­tage for which the weather gods con­spired to lay on per­fect con­di­tions. Pa­trice Rion told me sim­ply: ‘This was the vin­tage of my life.’ There were com­par­isons with 1985 and 2005, but also with the leg­endary 1929.

Don’t miss out on the vin­tage of a life­time, urges Harry Eyres

Why you should be buying them

Bur­gundy is, un­for­tu­nately, made in very lim­ited quan­ti­ties and global de­mand is grow­ing. Gen­uinely great vin­tages such as 2015 (I’m con­vinced the hype is jus­ti­fied, es­pe­cially for the reds) come along in­fre­quently: this is one ev­ery se­ri­ous wine-lover should add to his or her col­lec­tion. Buying en primeur is ad­vis­able as the wines sim­ply might not be avail­able in the fu­ture.

What to buy

An­other of the be­nign fea­tures of 2015 is that good wines were made ev­ery­where, in­clud­ing the mi­nor ap­pel­la­tions. This is a great year for Bour­gogne Rouge. The re­li­able Oliver Mer­lin’s Bour­gogne Rouge Les Cras 2015 (be­low left, £132 per dozen bot­tles in bond; www.bbr.com) looks es­pe­cially good value. From an­other ex­cel­lent (younger) grower, I rec­om­mend Marsan­nay Cu­vée Sain­tur­bain 2015 Do­maine Jean Fournier (£180 per dozen bot­tles in bond; www.bbr.com): this shows lovely bright­ness and ripe el­e­gance. Higher up the scale is Joseph Drouhin’s Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches 2015 (right, £350 per six bot­tles in bond; www.leaand san­de­man.co.uk), with its deep colour, rasp­berry-and-vi­o­let aro­mas and vel­vety depth. Re­serve it for spe­cial oc­ca­sions.

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