What to drink this week

Bur­gundy 2015: the whites

Country Life Every Week - - Town & Country Notebook -

The 2015 red Bur­gundies, as I wrote last week, are every­one’s favourite debu­tants of 2017. The 2015 whites, by con­trast, have suf­fered not just in com­par­i­son with the bril­liant reds, but also with the ex­cep­tional whites of 2014. How­ever, the 2015 white Bur­gundies, al­though not as con­sis­tent as the reds, are pretty good and, in some cases, quite spe­cial.

Some of the lesser­known names are a real treat–harry Eyres shares his se­crets

Why you should be drink­ing them

The early talk was that the 2015 white Bur­gundies had soaked up too much sun and warmth and there­fore lacked the acid­ity, per­fect poise and ten­sion of the 2014s. This turned out to be an over-sim­pli­fi­ca­tion. Some of them may be a bit heavy and clumsy, but oth­ers, where grow­ers picked early enough, have even more acid­ity than the 2014s (which, by the way, is a good thing).

What to drink

An ad­van­tage with the 2015 vin­tage across the board, whites as well as reds, is that lesser ap­pel­la­tions are of­ten as suc­cess­ful as top names. There are some su­per wines from the Mâ­con­nais. Mâ­con-bus­sières Les Clos Joseph Drouhin 2015 (£14.95; www.dbmwines.co.uk) has lovely golden colour, a gen­er­ous, flow­ery and full bou­quet and ex­cel­lent acid­ity. Mâ­con-uchizy, Les Maranches 2015, Les Héri­tiers du Comte La­fon (£23.50; www. bbr.com) car­ries an aris­to­cratic name and is cer­tainly not cheap for a Mâ­con, but the qual­ity is ex­cep­tional: there’s chalky ter­roir char­ac­ter and fresh acid­ity to go with the Mus­caty ripeness. Pouil­ly­fuissé En Care­men­tran, Bret Brothers 2015 (right, £186 per dozen bot­tles in bond; www.bbr.com) has even more in the way of ex­otic com­plex­ity and is a fas­ci­nat­ing wine.

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