What to drink this week

Palest Provençal rosé

Country Life Every Week - - Town & Country Notebook -

When the sun is shin­ing, one of th­ese del­i­cate and chic wines makes the per­fect aper­i­tif, says Harry Eyres

We’ve reached that time of year when wine mer­chants roll out their rosés (they never stop be­ing rolled out at my ten­nis club, but that’s another story). Th­ese days, the vogue is de­cid­edly Provençal and pale; mod­ish pink wines are rather like su­per­mod­els—slimmed down and pared down, in terms of colour, al­most to noth­ing­ness. I har­bour se­cret hopes that the wheel of fash­ion may turn once again in a more ro­bust di­rec­tion, but, in the mean­time, urge you to enjoy th­ese del­i­cate, softly tex­tured wines.

Why you should be drink­ing them

Th­ese rosés, at least if they’re dry, are su­perbly re­fresh­ing to drink as an aper­i­tif on a sunny, sum­mery evening and can also go well with Mediter­ranean fish. More ro­bust ver­sions, made us­ing se­ri­ous grapes such as Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvi­gnon, are a good ac­com­pa­ni­ment to lighter meat dishes.

What to drink

There can be a lot of maquil­lage with Provençal rosés, but with MIP Made in Provence Clas­sic Rosé 2016 from Do­maine Sainte Lu­cie (£13.95; www. leaand­sande­man.co.uk) there’s au­then­tic wine qual­ity, too—it has a soft fresh­ness, as well as some salty depth. Made in Provence Premium Rosé 2016 Do­maine Sainte Lu­cie (£15.95; www.leaand­sande­man. co.uk) is well worth the ex­tra out­lay for its pretty, pale-pink colour, sub­tle hints of red fruit and herbs, re­strained fleshi­ness on the palate and, most im­por­tant, dry fin­ish. If you want the top Provence name, then Whis­per­ing An­gel 2016 (£16.95; www.fromvine yards­di­rect.com) is very stylish, pale and fresh. Even more del­i­cate and chic, with just the faintest hint of pink, is the same pro­ducer’s Château d’es­clans Rock An­gel 2016 (right, £21.95; www.fromvine­yards­di­rect. com).

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