What to drink this week
Palest Provençal rosé
When the sun is shining, one of these delicate and chic wines makes the perfect aperitif, says Harry Eyres
We’ve reached that time of year when wine merchants roll out their rosés (they never stop being rolled out at my tennis club, but that’s another story). These days, the vogue is decidedly Provençal and pale; modish pink wines are rather like supermodels—slimmed down and pared down, in terms of colour, almost to nothingness. I harbour secret hopes that the wheel of fashion may turn once again in a more robust direction, but, in the meantime, urge you to enjoy these delicate, softly textured wines.
Why you should be drinking them
These rosés, at least if they’re dry, are superbly refreshing to drink as an aperitif on a sunny, summery evening and can also go well with Mediterranean fish. More robust versions, made using serious grapes such as Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, are a good accompaniment to lighter meat dishes.
What to drink
There can be a lot of maquillage with Provençal rosés, but with MIP Made in Provence Classic Rosé 2016 from Domaine Sainte Lucie (£13.95; www. leaandsandeman.co.uk) there’s authentic wine quality, too—it has a soft freshness, as well as some salty depth. Made in Provence Premium Rosé 2016 Domaine Sainte Lucie (£15.95; www.leaandsandeman. co.uk) is well worth the extra outlay for its pretty, pale-pink colour, subtle hints of red fruit and herbs, restrained fleshiness on the palate and, most important, dry finish. If you want the top Provence name, then Whispering Angel 2016 (£16.95; www.fromvine yardsdirect.com) is very stylish, pale and fresh. Even more delicate and chic, with just the faintest hint of pink, is the same producer’s Château d’esclans Rock Angel 2016 (right, £21.95; www.fromvineyardsdirect. com).