Once considered an incomprehensible habit of the Celtic fringe, eating seaweed has now become very fashionable in Britain, if not exactly mainstream. The main issue is how you cook the stuff. Most seaweeds have special applications in the kitchen and you can’t simply boil them up. However, dulse is the exception because you can. It can be boiled or steamed like cabbage and the result is very cabbage-like in appearance because the red fronds turn instantly green on cooking. And the taste is very similar if you forget the fairly strong flavour of iodine. I eat about half a dozen seaweeds, but dulse is my favourite because it’s so versatile and, of course, it tastes good and is extremely nutritious. I collect about 65lb every year. What I can’t eat fresh, I wash and dry on my daughters’ trampoline in the garden. I dry it further to crispness in a low oven, then blitz it in a powerful blender until it’s nearly a dust. Sprinkled on scallops or sea bass, it beats any fancy sauce.