Harry Eyres ex­plains why this white Bur­gundy is mis­un­der­stood

Country Life Every Week - - Town & Country Notebook -

Pouilly-fuissé is one of the best­known names in white Bur­gundy, es­pe­cially in the USA, but I wouldn’t say the wines are es­pe­cially well un­der­stood. There may even be a con­fu­sion with Pouilly-fumé, the Sauvi­gnon Blanc wine made across the Loire from Sancerre, 150 miles away. Pouilly-fuissé, of course, is 100% Chardon­nay and comes from the Mâ­con­nais, in south­ern Bur­gundy.

Why you should be drink­ing it

Pouilly-fuissé ac­quired its own ap­pel­la­tion—for wines from the hill­sides of Chain­tré, Fuissé, So­lutrépouilly and Ver­gis­son—in 1936 and the best bot­tles have al­ways been a cut above all the oth­ers from this zone. The price is some­where be­tween Mâ­con and Meur­sault, but the com­bi­na­tion of op­u­lence and in­ten­sity of the best wines is quite spe­cial and I don’t think they are over-priced.

What to drink

Louis La­tour’s Pouilly-fuissé 2015 (£80.81 for a case of three; www. ama­zon.co.uk) is quite lux­u­ri­ously rich on the nose, with some trop­i­cal-fruit notes, but then comes into sharp fo­cus on the palate, with tight min­er­al­ity. At Do­maine J. A. Fer­ret, a 45-acre es­tate pur­chased in 2008 by Louis Jadot, with hold­ings in the Pouilly am­phithe­atre and near the Roche de Ver­gis­son, each par­cel is vini­fied sep­a­rately—some in tank and some in oak—by the pas­sion­ate young wine­maker Au­drey Brac­cini. In the tra­di­tion of the founder, Mme Fer­ret, she makes a Pouilly-fuissé Tête de Cru Les Per­rières of pre­mier cru stan­dard and the 2015 (£42.95; www.ox­ford­wine.co.uk) has a lovely com­bi­na­tion of ripeness and tense acid­ity. The plain Fer­ret Pouilly-fuissé 2015 (right, £29.50; www. ox­ford­wine.co.uk) is also de­li­cious, rich and rounded at first, then racy on the fin­ish.

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