Harry Eyres explains why this white Burgundy is misunderstood
Pouilly-fuissé is one of the bestknown names in white Burgundy, especially in the USA, but I wouldn’t say the wines are especially well understood. There may even be a confusion with Pouilly-fumé, the Sauvignon Blanc wine made across the Loire from Sancerre, 150 miles away. Pouilly-fuissé, of course, is 100% Chardonnay and comes from the Mâconnais, in southern Burgundy.
Why you should be drinking it
Pouilly-fuissé acquired its own appellation—for wines from the hillsides of Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutrépouilly and Vergisson—in 1936 and the best bottles have always been a cut above all the others from this zone. The price is somewhere between Mâcon and Meursault, but the combination of opulence and intensity of the best wines is quite special and I don’t think they are over-priced.
What to drink
Louis Latour’s Pouilly-fuissé 2015 (£80.81 for a case of three; www. amazon.co.uk) is quite luxuriously rich on the nose, with some tropical-fruit notes, but then comes into sharp focus on the palate, with tight minerality. At Domaine J. A. Ferret, a 45-acre estate purchased in 2008 by Louis Jadot, with holdings in the Pouilly amphitheatre and near the Roche de Vergisson, each parcel is vinified separately—some in tank and some in oak—by the passionate young winemaker Audrey Braccini. In the tradition of the founder, Mme Ferret, she makes a Pouilly-fuissé Tête de Cru Les Perrières of premier cru standard and the 2015 (£42.95; www.oxfordwine.co.uk) has a lovely combination of ripeness and tense acidity. The plain Ferret Pouilly-fuissé 2015 (right, £29.50; www. oxfordwine.co.uk) is also delicious, rich and rounded at first, then racy on the finish.