From Oban, follow the ferry signs along a single-track road towards Gallanach, where there is a car park by the slipway. Slide the board to black to summon the ferry to Kerrera.
Passing an anchorage used by both Norse and Scots battle fleets, follow the teapots to the tea garden at Gylen. Divert here to the 16th-century stronghold of the MacDougall clan, where Robert the Bruce’s famous Brooch of Lorn was stolen and returned in 1825 by a descendant of the thief! Here you are in a geology SSSI, where slate and granite are all jumbled up in volcanic splendour on a raised beach platform boasting rock arches, stacks and caves. The track climbs onwards through moorland, giving spectacular views of islands and mountains all around.
An easily-navigated but deceptively strenuous walk through a dozen different landscapes steeped in history. Keep an eye out for seals and Minke whales.