Ferry into sun­set

ST MAWES, CORN­WALL Catch the last rays of a sunny day on a stretch of the Cor­nish coast that has it all – a ferry ride, great views and fan­tas­tic food and drinks, says Ni­cola Smith

Countryfile Magazine - - Contents -

St Mawes, Corn­wall

here are few more mag­i­cal places to cel­e­brate the wel­come re­turn of sul­try sum­mer evenings than mo­tor­ing across the waves as Falmouth’s un­du­lat­ing sky­line re­cedes and the ma­jes­tic form of Pen­den­nis Cas­tle comes into view.

The pas­sen­ger ferry (www. fal­river.co.uk) runs be­tween the Cor­nish sea­side town of Falmouth and the small fish­ing har­bour of St Mawes. It takes just 20 min­utes, leav­ing Prince of Wales Pier and tak­ing in the views over the vil­lage of Flush­ing, sweep­ing past Falmouth’s im­pres­sive docks and head­ing out to the Car­rick Roads. I have of­ten seen dol­phins and bask­ing sharks put on a show for ferry pas­sen­gers in this stretch of

Twa­ter, duck­ing and div­ing as their cap­tive au­di­ence squeals with de­light. Round­ing Pen­den­nis’ twin, St Mawes Cas­tle (both were built by Henry VIII), you quickly ar­rive in the at­trac­tive St Mawes har­bour – a short walk from the un­der­stated Tre­san­ton Ho­tel, boasting a ter­race tai­lor-made for a sun­downer… (see box)


Brain­child of renowned hote­lier, Olga Polizzi, the Tre­san­ton has evolved from its ori­gins as a water­side yachts­men’s club to an in­dul­gent hide­away (it boasts its own cinema and even its own yacht), with views across to St An­thony’s Light­house.

As the theatre of the sun­set un­folds, it is un­likely you will want to leave this won­drous spot af­ter just a cock­tail. In­stead, slip in­side to the restau­rant with its floor-to­ceil­ing win­dows and watch as the sky dark­ens and the dis­tant light­house calls across the wa­ter.


Stay the night in one of the deca­dently fur­nished rooms (room 29 boasts a huge pic­ture win­dow fram­ing St An­thony’s Head across the wa­ter) and wake to the seag­ulls call­ing and the sun ris­ing over the sea, with the whole of Corn­wall be­fore you and ready for a full day of ex­plor­ing.

Ni­cola Smith


My favourite place to watch the sun sink to the west is the ter­race – an idyl­lic spot to en­joy one of the cock­tails for which the Tre­san­ton is known. Try the Tre­san­ton Sour, com­pris­ing cam­pari, gal­liano, cran­berry, grapefruit and lemon, or the Vir­gin Mary, made with a closely guarded se­cret recipe, and sip away as you watch the last of the sail­ing boats drift home. St Mawes, Corn­wall TR2 5DR 01326 270 055 www.tre­san­ton.com

The Cor­nish fish­ing vil­lage of St Mawes winds down for the evening as it basks in a dusky glow

has been a free­lance jour­nal­ist for over 12 years and is based in Corn­wall.

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