NOVEMBER IN THE COUNTRY
› Carve natural firelighters. › Identify earthworks. › Witness a fire festival.
A moment of autumnal calm settles over Loch Etive, a sea loch that brings the ocean over 17 tortuous miles (28km) deep into mainland Scotland. There are almost no roads alongside the loch; it has always been easier to use the water itself as a highway rather than the mountainous land that envelops it. Thus, much of the loch is unvisited – save for adventurous seals – though cruises are available from the mouth of the loch. Golden and white-tailed eagles live relatively undisturbed here.