Where to eat, stay and ram­ble on the Suf­folk coast by Mark Cocker and An­gela Lin­forth

Countryfile Magazine - - Discover -

WALKS 1 Blyth­burgh to Wal­ber­swick

A four-mile morn­ing stroll will take you by the wild wader-and wild­fowl-packed es­tu­ary, across Suf­folk’s fa­mous heath, and through golden-leaved woods in per­fect time for lunch in one of the coast’s most beau­ti­ful vil­lages.

2 Dun­wich cliffs to Mins­mere Scrape

De­scend from the NT carpark to one of the most justly cel­e­brated parts of East Anglia. The 2-3 mile cir­cuit around the RSPB scrape hides is a golden op­por­tu­nity to en­joy Suf­folk’s mag­nif­i­cent sea-and-sky space, its fab­u­lous birds and rare coastal habi­tats. 017687 74238, helingholmes­

3 Alde­burgh to Thor­pe­ness

This 2.5-mile sea­side prom­e­nade is a walk for all ages and abil­i­ties. There are glo­ri­ous wide au­tumn panora­mas on one side and the RSPB’s North War­ren marshes on the other. Along the way you can en­joy Maggi Ham­bling’s Scal­lop sculp­ture cel­e­brat­ing Ben­jamin Brit­ten on Alde­burgh beach.

IF IT’S RAIN­ING… 4 Snape Malt­ings

With a rich in­dus­trial his­tory, the Malt­ings is now a world-class mu­sic venue and home to the Alde­burgh Fes­ti­val. Seek shel­ter in its large home­ware store, food hall, gal­leries, an­tiques cen­tre and cafes. An ac­tive ex­hi­bi­tions pro­gramme, monthly food mar­ket and oc­ca­sional vin­tage fair of­fer reg­u­lar change. snape­malt­


“All the com­forts of life in a tav­ern are known/ ‘tis his home who pos­sesses not one of his own.” So wrote the poet Ge­orge Crabbe in 1810, and the crea­ture com­forts of Suf­folk tav­erns have changed lit­tle in 200 years. Not only are there great pubs in al­most ev­ery vil­lage on the coast, but Ad­nams – surely one of Eng­land’s best beers – has its home in South­wold. If you are look­ing for the per­fect pint (mine’s Broad­side) with freshly caught seafood then try one of the fol­low­ing:

5 The Oys­ter Inn, But­ley

This has re­cently re­opened to keep alive a 400-year-long tra­di­tion. Once the haunt of smug­glers, it is now the ideal stop after a visit to Or­ford Ness. 01394 459722, but­ley­oys­

6 The Jolly Sailor, Or­ford

The Jolly Sailor could have hosted the young Ge­orge Crabbe him­self and dates to the 1600s. Its gar­den has views over the Alde marshes. 01394 450243, jolly­sailoror­

7 The Bell Inn, Wal­ber­swick

Sit­u­ated on the vil­lage green at Wal­ber­swick, this great fam­ily pub and has an im­pres­sive 600-year record of con­vivi­al­ity. 01502 723109, bellinnwal­ber­

8 The Lord Nel­son, South­wold

Next to the home of Suf­folk beer, its lovely sea­side views be­fit the nau­ti­cal theme of the in­te­rior. 01502 722079, th­elord­nel­son­south­

PLACE TO MOOCH 9 South­wold

If you can tear your­self away from the sandy beach with its pier and iconic beach-huts, the town cen­tre has much to of­fer. While there are a few chains, there are gal­leries ga­lore, plenty of in­de­pen­dent clothes shops and cof­fee stops along with a few an­tiques em­po­ria, plus many op­por­tu­ni­ties to quaff the lo­cal Ad­nams brews.

EAT 10 Sole Bay Fish Com­pany, South­wold

A shack at the har­bour’s edge, the Sole Bay Fish Com­pany is part shop, part restau­rant. A menu of the fresh­est seafood and fish is ex­e­cuted flaw­lessly and served sim­ply. Book­ing is es­sen­tial. 01502 724421; sole­bay­

WHERE TO STAY 11 The Crown and Cas­tle, Or­ford

“A restau­rant with rooms”, this is Ho­tel In­spec­tor Ruth Wat­son’s show­case ho­tel. A view of Or­ford Cas­tle, stylish un­der­stated bed­rooms (five dog-friendly) and a top-class restau­rant make it a great place to stay. 01394 450 205; crow­nand­cas­

12 Bru­denell, Alde­burgh

One of a small Suf­folk chain, the Bru­denell over­looks the beach at Alde­burgh. Decor is bright and breezy sea­side blues and stripes. The restau­rant menu is a tasty mix of fish and lo­cal meats and a “bark bar” shouts that pooches are wel­come. 01728 452071; bru­denell­ho­

13 In­ter­ludes

This first-floor Alde­burgh apart­ment is qui­etly and con­ve­niently sit­u­ated right by the beach, shops and at­trac­tions of the town. Cosy, well-equipped and stylish, it is full of friendly ad­vice about this cul­tur­ally rich area. 01502 722717, suf­folk-se­

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