IRISH SODA BREAD

Warming, fluffy and delicious, this soda bread reminds me of my childhood. No Ulster fry was ever complete without a wedge on the side, loaded with melting butter. You can eat it for breakfast, lunch, dinner – and pretty much every time in between.

Serves 8-10

450g (1lb) self-raising flour

2tsp bicarbonate of soda

300ml (½pt) buttermilk – or to make your own, use 285ml (9½fl oz) normal milk, add 1tbsp lemon juice and whisk thoroughly

Preheat the oven to 240°C/fan 220°C/gas 8. Lightly grease a baking tray. Sift the flour and bicarbonate of soda into a bowl. Add the buttermilk and mix. Try to get rid of the lumps without overworking the mixture, which will stop the bread from rising properly. Once it comes together into a dough, stick your hands into the bowl and turn it out on to a floured surface. Roll the dough over a couple of times, then shape it into a round and gently flatten until it’s about 5cm thick.

Transfer to the baking tray and, using a serrated knife, mark a large cross on the top as if to divide the loaf into 4 quarters. The cut should go around ½cm deep into the loaf. Bake in the hot oven for 10 minutes, then lower the temperature to 190°C/fan 170°C/gas 5 and bake for a further 20 minutes, or until a skewer stuck into the centre of the loaf comes out clean. If it comes out sticky, give the bread another 5 minutes, or until the skewer comes out clean. Allow to cool on a wire rack. Slice and serve with butter, cheese or jam.