DANUBE EXPLORER
A holiday with Emerald Waterways sailing through the heart of Europe changed Leigh Mellor’s perceptions of river cruising
THERE was a moment on our recent holiday that I realised it truly was one of the most enriching and exhilarating yet restorative breaks I’d ever experienced. It was when my husband and I were sat on the sun deck of our Emerald Waterways ship, a pre-dinner gin and tonic in hand, as a gentle breeze cooled us on a warm summer evening, while we sailed past beautiful scenery.
We were looking forward to yet another delicious meal on board, and recounting how much we’d absorbed on a fascinating, fun day exploring ashore. It felt like this really did tick all the boxes for the perfect holiday.
We’d spent an idyllic few hours exploring the medieval village of Durnstein, in Austria’s breathtaking Wachau Valley, where ancient vineyards and apricot orchards thrive along this scenic stretch of the Danube.
We’d learned about the region’s unique microclimate and the timeworn methods used to nurture and harvest the Grüner Veltliner and Riesling grapes and the apricots; then we’d sampled the resulting produce, including a delicious apricot schnapps which we couldn’t resist buying to take home.
We saw the castle where Richard the Lionheart was held captive after returning from the Crusades in the 12th century, and we spent a blissful afternoon pedalling alongside the river. With a dedicated, gently undulating cycle path to follow, our leisurely 20-mile, two-wheeled journey along the valley was a pleasant one, culminating at the magnificent baroque Abbey in Melk, perched above the river below.
After many years of independent travel, single-destination holidays and the odd city break, we finally succumbed to a river cruise so we could see more in one trip. We loved the idea of not having to keep packing and unpacking as we moved from one place to another: instead, being transported along one of the world’s waterways as we slept.
We’d always been a little reluctant, as we didn’t think we were the sort who went on river cruises: we go to lots of cultural events, both love cycling and walking and swim a few times a week.
However, when a friend who works in the travel industry recommended Emerald Waterways, we investigated further, and liked what we saw.
OUR KIND OF RIVER CRUISE
AND we weren’t disappointed: the eight-night Danube Explorer cruise we booked couldn’t have been more perfect. The sleek Star Ship was nothing like we imagined a river cruise vessel to be. Instead, it felt like the boutique hotels we like to stay in on our long weekend breaks, with chic, contemporary décor and a good gym, a pool with retractable roof that becomes a cinema at night and other state-of-the-art amenities. Our stateroom was light, airy and modern, with a lovely bathroom (we loved the multi-sensory shower!), and there was something really special about waking each morning to new views.
The on-board dining exceeded all our expectations and we quickly grew to love the tranquillity of relaxing on the sun deck with a cocktail, watching awe-inspiring scenery. It was good for the soul, and a contrast to the incredible days we had discovering the towns and cities between beautiful Budapest and
We quickly grew to love the peace and tranquillity of relaxing on the sun deck with a cocktail
The sleek Star Ship was nothing like we imagined a river cruise vessel to be
Passau, where we started and ended our journey. Travelling upstream from the Hungarian capital, we joined a guided hike up Buda Hill for stunning views of the city, and met other couples who were new to river cruising but had been attracted by the EmeraldACTIVE excursions and modern ships.
Arriving in Vienna with new-found friends, we took the on-board bikes. and felt immersed in local life on a guided bike tour, stopping to take in the sights – including one of the famous coffee houses, of course. We booked a classical concert, enjoying a recital of pieces by Mozart and Strauss in spectacular surroundings and had time to wander round and explore at our leisure.
Dropping anchor in Linz, we headed off to the Hallein Salt Mines, a network of tunnels and caves where ‘white gold’ has been mined for over 2,500 years, and in Passau we combined a walking tour of the pretty cobblestone streets with a hike in the lovely countryside. Our only gripe was that our holiday was over too soon, and, as we transferred to Munich airport for our flight home, we were already discussing which itinerary we’d be booking for our next Emerald river cruise…
For more information and to book, visit emeraldwaterways.co.uk or call free on 0808 250 8909