AN INSPECTOR CALLS

He always pays his way and tells it like it is

THIS is a huge new opening — and a long-awaited one. Hong Kong-born American billionaire Gerald Chan (co-founder of a private equity group) had planned to launch Heckfield Place near Hook, Hampshire, in 2012, but wasn’t satisfied with the finished product.

Last month, it finally came to life, with one glossy mag suggesting it could be the ‘most exciting country house hotel to have opened in the past 21 years’.

Certainly one of the most expensive, with rooms starting at £350, moving upwards to £10,000 a night for the big suite.

But, my goodness, it’s special. The house itself, set in 400 acres, with its own farm, ornamental lake, private cottages and work-in-progress spa, dates back to the 1760s, although various additions have been made. Staff are dressed as if on the set of a period drama, with billowing skirts, waistcoats and frilly necklines.

They’ve all bought into the vibe, which is the luxurious Aman group (the general manager worked for Aman for 18 years) meets Soho House and The Pig at its best.

I had hoped our £350 B&B would get us a bath rather than just a shower, but my wife told me not to complain because baths are Eighties and millennials don’t approve of them.

Even so, I asked if we could be upgraded (it was a Monday and few other people were staying) to get a bath. Yes, we could but the price would rise to £500. I looked crest-fallen.

‘That’s the policy and we have to stick to it,’ said a member of staff politely.

Five minutes later, there’s a knock on the door. ‘We’ve thought about it and are happy to move you for the same price.’

There’s something good going on in the main restaurant under the guidance of ‘culinary director’ Skye Gyngell, where much of the menu comes from the farm and everything from the butter to the mustard is home- made. And forget white, starched tablecloths and any form of muzak. It’s all wood, marble, stone — and looking forward to your next yoga holiday or juicing fest.

After breakfast, we wandered around the grounds and saw the building site where the spa, infinity pool and gym are being built. Then we checked out the screening room, where you sit on leather armchairs with tables next to them with enough room to stand several glasses.

Mr Chan has been described as an ‘invisible billionaire’, but his hotel is a visible triumph of what money can buy. Heckfield Place Hampshire RG27 0LD Tel: 0118 932 6868 heckfieldplace.com Doubles from £350 B&B