A dry sub­ject

Decanter - - RIESLING -

Nack­en­heim in the dra­matic Rhein­ter­rasse vine­yards, with Gun­der­loch, Küh­ling-Gil­lot and Schätzel mak­ing waves. The other is the Won­negau, where Keller and Wittmann con­jure up rich yet pure, com­plex Ries­lings struc­tured by el­e­gant min­er­al­ity. Among other names to watch are Bat­ten­feld Spanier, Dreis­si­gacker, Fauth, Geil-Bier­schenk, Gut­zler, Huff, Pfan­nebecker, St Antony, Spiess, Stepp, Thörle, Wag­ner-Stem­pel and Win­ter. Ge­org Breuer, Graf von Kanitz, JB Becker, Johannes Eser, Josef Leitz, Peter Jakob Kühn, Prinz, Quer­bach, Reiner Flick, Robert Weil, Schloss Jo­han­nis­berg, Schloss Rein­hartshausen, Schloss Schön­born, Schloss Voll­rads, Spre­itzer and Wegeler. In Europe, the term ‘ trocken’ can only be used where the wine has a max­i­mum sugar con­tent of 4g/l – or 9g/l if sugar does not ex­ceed acid­ity by more than 2g/l. So a Ries­ling is tech­ni­cally dry if with 8g/l of sugar, it also has at least 6g/l of acid­ity. Out­side the EU there are no such pre­cise def­i­ni­tions, but there are var­i­ous dry to sweet scales, from the In­ter­na­tional Ries­ling Foun­da­tion’s Taste Pro­file, to the Al­sace scale, plus in­di­vid­ual sys­tems like US-based wine im­porter and writer Terry Theise’s Sense of Sweet­ness and UK au­thor Stu­art Pig­ott’s Acid Test.

Above: work­ers be­gin to har­vest Ries­ling grapes at Weingut Win­ter in Ger­many’s Rhein­hessen

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