What happens as wine ages?
As an aqueous solution of alcohol, acids, phenolic and flavour compounds, wine is a complex liquid undergoing constant changes. Its different elements constantly react with each other: water, glycosides, phenolics, alcohols and acids connect and disband, break down and hydrolyse, only to reconnect all over again, at varying speeds and in varying combinations.
In this respect wine is like a kaleidoscope: the same elements constantly form new and often beguiling images. At no two junctures will a wine be the same. That certain flavours emerge and develop is nothing short of alchemy and not yet fully understood. Fresh flavours evolve to evoke dried and even candied fruits; while hints of earth and stone, honey and mushroom, petals and herb appear magically. Even decay can smell sweet.
In red wine, importantly, phenolic compounds de-nature over time causing them to form long chains. This process of polymerisation decreases their reactive surface and makes the wine less astringent: this is why reds become smoother with age.
Some of these phenolic chains become so large they eventually precipitate as sediment.
With time, the vibrant purple and crimson hues of a red wine turn into vermilion and garnet, while the bright straw colour of white wine becomes increasingly golden and eventually amber. The passage of time thus affects the look, smell, taste and texture of wine.
maturation periods, but most Italian riservas will require further ageing on release. Spain, however, offers a great glimpse of maturity in its gran reservas. Rioja Gran Reserva requires a minimum of five years’ ageing before release for reds, but some wineries go beyond that.
‘At Marqués de Murrieta, we have always had a commitment to create wines with amazing ageing potential,’ explains winemaker María Vargas. Extended time in oak adds to this ageworthiness. Over the past decade we have seen an increase in the younger, fruitier styles of red wine with sales of joven and crianza. We don’t release wines younger than reserva, because our vineyards – La Plana, Capellanía and Dalmau – lend themselves to ageworthy wines. We have records of some vintages of Castillo Ygay being bottled after more than 40 years of age.’
Style choice
Corison in Napa describes the trajectory of her Cabernets as they mature: ‘At their first, fruitdriven peak upon release, they have been in the bottle just long enough to settle down and knit. After a few years they close in, only to blossom at about 10 years. They are still very fruity then but have had time to develop lovely tertiary perfumes. This is one of my favourite times to drink them, in their sweet spot.
‘They continue to evolve in the bottle, gaining more and more complexity with the fruit slowly taking a back seat. I’m not sure how long they’ll live – the first vintages are