What I’ve been drinking this month
Mediterranean whites fascinate me. What do you put in place of the natural tension delivered by coolerclimate levels of acidity? One of the finest I know is a Montpellier garage wine – but the garagiste is hugely experienced consultant Jean Natoli, working a tiny family parcel in Vaucluse known as Mas Cascal, and vinified in the Montpellier suburb of Castelnau-le-Lez. We tried the Les Ailes du Désir, 2011 and it had everyone hymning its scented subtlety and vinous freshness: that tension was there, even though this was a rich wine.