What I’ve been drink­ing this month

Decanter - - LETTERS -

Mediter­ranean whites fas­ci­nate me. What do you put in place of the nat­u­ral ten­sion de­liv­ered by cool­er­cli­mate lev­els of acid­ity? One of the finest I know is a Mont­pel­lier garage wine – but the garag­iste is hugely ex­pe­ri­enced con­sul­tant Jean Na­toli, work­ing a tiny fam­ily par­cel in Vau­cluse known as Mas Cas­cal, and vini­fied in the Mont­pel­lier sub­urb of Castel­nau-le-Lez. We tried the Les Ailes du Désir, 2011 and it had ev­ery­one hymn­ing its scented sub­tlety and vi­nous fresh­ness: that ten­sion was there, even though this was a rich wine.

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