Bau­dains’ choice: Brunello 2012; Brunello Ris­erva 2011; and Rosso di Mon­tal­cino 2015

Decanter - - VINTAGE REPORT: BRUNELLO -

Wines are listed within their de­nom­i­nazione, then by score, then al­pha­bet­i­cally by pro­ducer.

Brunello di Mon­tal­cino

Fuligni 2012 96 £ 55.95 Lea & Sande­man Open, very ex­pres­sive nose for the vin­tage, with wild berries, pow­der puff and hi­bis­cus. Tight ripe tan­nins and firm struc­ture, lovely black­berry fruit on the fin­ish with a hint of green wal­nut. Drink 2019-2032 Al­co­hol 14.5% San Polino, Helichry­sum 2012 96 £60.83 (2011) Fine & Rare Del­i­cate flo­ral, wild berry nose. Palate of great power, but also su­pe­rior bal­ance. Pre­cise fruit with a fresh juicy vein be­hind the tan­nins and a long, broad fin­ish with hints of baked earth and co­coa pow­der. Drink 2019-2032 Alc 14.5% Silvio Nardi, Vigneto Pog­gio Do­ria 2012 96 £79.99 Cham­pagne & Châteaux Still quite closed on the nose, but fresh and pre­cise. Firm ver­ti­cal palate with very fine tan­nins, a sub­tle mix of herbs and spices and lots of dark fruit wait­ing to come out. Long, con­cen­trated fin­ish. El­e­gant ex­pres­sion of the ter­roir. Drink 2019-2032 Alc 14.5%

Il Mar­roneto, Madonna delle Gra­zie 2012 95 £93-£ 100 (2011) Ar­mit, L’Assem­blage, Mil­lésima Big, earthy ter­roir nose of hu­mus and mush­room with candied fruit in the back­ground. Equally big palate with slightly raw tan­nins and a hint of spik­i­ness, but great en­ergy and per­son­al­ity. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14.5%

Salvioni 2012 95 £95-£ 125 Hand­ford, Jer­oboams, Rober­son Quite closed on the nose, in­tense and con­cen­trated on the palate with con­fi­dent pro­gres­sion, a sub­tle but tangy wild berry fruit vein, pow­dery tan­nins and a dry, grippy fin­ish. Shows great bal­ance and style for the vin­tage. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14.5%

Cro­ced­imezzo 2012 94 N/A UK www.croced imezzo. wine Pressed flow­ers, in­cense and a touch of

oregano on the nose. Starts low-key on the palate, then opens up, big and pow­er­ful with rich, plummy fruit. Punchy fin­ish with glossy tan­nins and notes of white pep­per and herbs. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 13.5%

Donatella Cinelli Colom­bini, Prime Donne

2012 94 £49.99 (2010) El­lis of Rich­mond, M&M Per­sonal Vint­ners In­tense, con­cen­trated fruit nose, with hints of sloe gin. Big im­pact on the palate, dense ripe tan­nins and a long, com­plex fin­ish with notes of tobacco leaf, plummy fruit and wood smoke. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14%

Gianni Brunelli, Le Chiuse di Sotto 2012 94 £ 30 (ib)-£ 34 Lay & Wheeler, The Wine So­ci­ety Fresh black­berry fruit on the nose, then bal­anced, tight, tangy and fine on the palate with per­fectly in­te­grated tan­nins and a long fruit and min­eral fin­ish. Rare ele­gance for the vin­tage. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 13.5%

Le Rag­naie, For­nace 2012 94 £ 52.59 (2011) Farr Vint­ners, Jus­terini & Brooks Slightly smoky, toasted bar­ley nose. Mas­sive con­cen­tra­tion of fruit and great vol­ume on the palate. Tan­nins are re­fined for the vin­tage, the fin­ish pep­pery with an in­tense, savoury kick. Se­ri­ous wine. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14% Pog­gio di Sotto 2012 94 £ 108.59 (2011) Fine & Rare, Jus­terini & Brooks Very tra­di­tional nose of pressed flow­ers, with gamey notes and hints of chest­nut flour and cam­phor in the back­ground. Con­cen­trated, dry and nervy on the palate and a hot green pep­per fin­ish. Slightly con­tro­ver­sial volatil­ity, but full of per­son­al­ity. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 13.5% Pi­et­roso 2012 93 £47.50 Davy’s Del­i­cate, fresh wild berry notes on the nose with hints of ju­niper and caramel. This is warm and full-bod­ied on the palate, which has fine tan­nins, some fresh­ness and en­ergy, and a long, pep­pery fin­ish. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14.5%

Sesti 2012 93 £ 37.50 (ib)-£ 59.99 Ar­mit, Hand­ford An el­e­gant nose of pressed flow­ers, in­cense and spice, then a con­cen­trated palate with lots of flesh and firm un­der­ly­ing struc­ture. Savoury herb fin­ish, quite closed but good po­ten­tial. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14.5%

Tenuta di Sesta 2012 93 N/A UK www.tenu tadis­esta. it Au­tumn leaf and pressed rose petal on the nose. Very dense, soft and rounded on the palate with chunky tan­nins. Cherry jam and hints of green wal­nut too, and some grip on the fin­ish. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 14.5%

Barbi, Vigna del Fiore 2012 92 N/A UK www.fat­tori adeibarbi. it Nose of ground hazel­nut, prunes and cherry brandy. Soft palate with re­fined tan­nins, but with a fresh acid vein giv­ing length and bal­ance. Dry, savoury fin­ish. El­e­gant and un­der­stated. Drink 2019-2032 Alc 14% Le Chiuse 2012 92 £43.70 (2011) Tan­nico Cedar and san­dal­wood aro­mas with a touch of eu­ca­lyp­tus. Densely packed ripe fruit on the palate, with a slightly figgy char­ac­ter and some firm­ness in the tan­nins. Very rep­re­sen­ta­tive of the vin­tage. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14%

Mas­tro­janni 2012 92 £43.10 L’Assem­blage, Tan­nico Brick red cen­tre, with signs of ma­tu­rity in the shade. Slightly un­de­fined on the nose, but very pow­er­ful palate, com­pact dark fruit, long and tangy. Still very un­to­gether, but has po­ten­tial. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 15%

La For­tuna 2012 90 N/A UK www. tenu­ta­lafor­tuna. it Big, very ripe nose with dark flow­ers and sweet cherry jam. Dense palate with well amal­ga­mated tan­nins, lots of weight in the mid­dle and a pep­pery fin­ish. A hint of volatil­ity gives lift. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 14% Pog­gio An­tico 2012 90 £65 Hand­ford At­trac­tive notes of plum and cherry on the nose. Dry and slightly sandy tex­ture on the palate with some un­der­ly­ing struc­ture. Solid, a bit closed now but bal­anced, with a long, savoury fin­ish. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 14%

Castello di Velona 2012 89 N/A UK www.castello di­velona. it Has a ma­ture look. Warm and earthy on the nose, with notes of fig and prune. Very tra­di­tional full-bod­ied palate, with lots of sweet fruit, re­fined tan­nins and a soft, al­mondy fin­ish. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14.5%

Pian delle Querci 2012 89 N/A UK www. piandelle­querci. it A quite evolved shade. Del­i­cate nose of red

cherry, moss and tu­bers. Warm, full-bod­ied palate with big al­co­hol-tan­nin tex­ture and a broad fin­ish. Drink­ing early for the vin­tage. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 15%

Querce Bet­tina 2012 89 £ 38.75 (2011) Haynes Han­son & Clark Ma­ture, tra­di­tional nose of boiled chest­nut, cherry brandy, pressed flow­ers, touches of mush­room and tar. Sour fruit fresh­ness on the palate, ripe tan­nins. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14%

Brunello di Mon­tal­cino Ris­erva

Lisini, Ugo­laia 2011 93 £63.67 (2010) Fine & Rare Open and well-de­fined on the nose with wild berry aro­mas, fol­lowed by a palate with very fine, soft re­fined tan­nins and lots of sweet fuit. Not great struc­ture, but at­trac­tive fleshy fruit. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 14.5% Val di Suga, Vigna Spun­tali 2011 92 £61.17 (2010) Fine & Rare Com­plex if still un­formed on the nose, with aro­mas of wild berry, mint and cedar. Big ex­tracty palate with lots of wood tan­nins still to ab­sorb. Aus­tere but vig­or­ous. Needs time. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 13% Ca­sisano, Colom­baiolo 2011 90 N/A UK www.ca­sisano. it Deep ma­ture shade. Rich, tra­di­tional nose with sweet fruit and hints of laven­der. Full-bod­ied, fleshy, soft and round palate with ma­ture tan­nins and notes of liquorice and dried mush­room. Ready. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 14%

Rosso di Mon­tal­cino

Bar­icci 2015 95 £ 17.80 Tan­nico Lovely flo­ral nose. Ripe palate, great in­ten­sity and bal­ance. Black fruit a touch of al­monds in the fin­ish. Very young, vi­brant, a great ex­am­ple of the vin­tage. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 14%

Le Po­tazz­ine 2015 95 £ 15 (ib)-£ 28.50 Farr Vint­ners , Stan­nary St Wine Co Sweet red fruit and rose petal on the nose. Pure, fresh, fo­cused palate with bright fruit and crisp tan­nins. Great en­ergy and length. De­li­cious. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 14%

Siro Pa­centi 2015 95 £ 21.60-£ 23.95 Ar­mit, Jer­oboams A lit­tle closed on the nose, with nu­ances of red fruit and vanilla pods. Big, round palate with dense, ripe, plummy fruit and an in­trigu­ing herbal aro­matic fin­ish. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 15%

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