My top three

Si­mon Field MW

Decanter - - PANEL TASTING -

■ Château de Vaudieu, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 An out­stand­ing ex­pres­sion – on the one hand rich, in­dul­gent and dis­tinctly Mediter­ranean; on the other, dis­arm­ingly fresh and there­fore re­fresh­ing. It’s a be­guil­ing para­dox. 95 Drink 2017-2025

■ Do­maine Les Hautes Cances, Cu­vée Tra­di­tion, Cairanne 2016 White Cairanne, when it sings, as it does here, en­twines flow­ers and herbs, and des­cants to a mem­o­rable fin­ish. Notes of fen­nel and even white pep­per, not to men­tion a sub­lim­i­nal prompt to an­other glass! 95 Drink 2017-2020

■ Do­maine Gi­raud, Les Sables d’Arène, Côtes du Rhône 2016 The Gi­rauds can do lit­tle wrong; very lit­tle indeed on this ev­i­dence, which per­fectly bal­ances Clairette’s aro­matic po­ten­tial with the grounded yet high qual­ity Gre­nache Blanc. 93 Drink 2017-2019

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