Decanter

Flight of fancy

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THERE SEEMS TO be a perennial battle on the pages and among the readers of this fine publicatio­n. What’s the point of reviewing domaine de la romanée-Conti’s romanée-Conti 2015 when: a) we all know it will be brilliant; and b) only a few very rich people will ever get to drink it? Why not dedicate more column inches to value offers? surely there is room for both: everyday advice and drinking fantasy. When it comes to the latter, I’m reminded of a comment attributed to Us comedian george burns in his dotage. back when travelling first class was just that, he was asked by a flight attendant which magazines he would like. ‘ National Geographic and Playboy please.’ When the attendant commented that this was a rather strange and diverse selection, he replied: ‘yes, I really enjoy reading about places I’ll never get to visit.’ Will Bentley, Ludlow, UK

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