What I’ve been drinking this month

The ageing potential of village red Burgundy from great producers is routinely underestimated. I recently enjoyed the Domaine Lafarge, Vendanges Sélectionnées, Volnay 1993 – a bottling from Lafarge’s best village Volnay parcels abutting the commune’s 1er crus. Even after 24 years it is still mesmerisingly good. Notes of griotte cherry, cocoa nib and panforte introduce a supple, silky wine with melted tannins and bright acidity.