Best of Tas­ma­nia: Ahmed’s mixed dozen

Decanter - - AUSTRALIA -

House of Ar­ras, Grand Vin­tage 2007 95 £ 32.93-£ 34.99 Exel, Lib­erty, Oz Wines Sev­eral years on lees pro­duce a star­tlingly fresh, pro­found tra­di­tional method cu­vée with a creamy mousse. Com­pris­ing 78% Chardon­nay and 22% Pinot Noir, it fea­tures tangy lemon pos­set, spiced ap­ples and short­bread. Weighty yet pre­cise. Drink 2017-2020 Al­co­hol 13% Jansz, Pre­mium Rosé, Pipers River NV 92 £ 16.99-£ 24.70 AC Gal­lie, Cam­bridge Wine Mer­chants, Corks Out, Dul­wich Vint­ners, Exel, Fra­zier’s, Hail­sham Cel­lars, Love Wine, Ocado, Od­dbins, The Solent Cellar With 68% Pinot Noir and 6% Pinot Me­u­nier in the blend, this pale salmon

tra­di­tional method rosé has lin­ger­ing, creamy straw­berry and short­cake nu­ances to the palate; 26% Chardon­nay gives line and length. Supremely drink­able. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 12.5% Tolpud­dle, Chardon­nay,

Coal River Val­ley 2015 96 £43.99 Lib­erty, The Se­cret Cellar This in­ci­sive sin­gle-vine­yard Chardon­nay puts me in mind of Ries­ling. Rapier-like acid­ity and slatey min­er­al­ity with fresh grape­fruit and ic­ing sugar-dusted green ap­ples. Ter­rific ve­loc­ity and length. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 12.5% Si­napius, Home Vine­yard Chardon­nay, Pipers River 2015 94 N/A UK www. si­ au A beau­ti­fully tex­tured, slow-burn,

nu­anced Chardon­nay with white blos­som and in­cip­i­ent honey. Ch­ablis-like chalky lees, oyster shell and lemony fruit gen­tly flesh out a firm back­bone of acid­ity. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.5% Fr­eycinet Vine­yard, The So­ci­ety’s Exhibition Tas­ma­nian Chardon­nay,

East Coast 2015 91 £ 14.50 The Wine So­ci­ety A typ­i­cally con­cen­trated, well-fo­cused East Coast Chardon­nay. Cashew nu­ances, ripe, zesty lemon, lime and rock melon with pra­line and cream com­plex­ity and a sub­tle smok­i­ness to the fin­ish. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13.5% Josef Chromy, SGR De­likãt Ries­ling, Ta­mar Val­ley 2016 90 £ 15.55-£ 17.99 Exel, GP Brands, Lat­i­tude From be­side a small rocky creek, both SGR (Sixty Grams Resid­ual) De­likat - – a

Kabi­nett style – and its dry sta­ble-mate Zdar have slate-like min­er­al­ity. This has sor­bet-pure lime with pretty el­der­flower. Drink 2017-2026 Alc 7.5% Stoney Rise, Holy­man Pinot

Noir, Ta­mar Val­ley 2015 95 N/A UK www. A 0.6ha block planted in 1986 pro­duces a spicy fret­work of tan­nin (55% whole-bunch), with sappy pome­gran­ate, red­cur­rant and berry fruit. Taut, min­eral acid­ity re­in­forces its pre­cise ar­chi­tec­ture. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Do­maine Simha, Beau­re­gard Am­phora Pinot Noir, Der­went River Val­ley 2015 93 N/A UK­maines­ Har­vested on a bio­dy­namic cal­en­dar flower day, skil­fully fer­mented in am­phora with 100% whole-bunch for three months then aged in tank. Dried sweet spice, peony and min­eral-in­flected sappy red cherry, with the slinki­est tan­nins. Sylph-like. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12.3% Glaet­zer- Dixon, Mon Père Shiraz, Der­went River Val­ley 2015 93 £ 55 Swig Cli­mate and par­tial whole-bunch fer­ment pro­duce a medium-bod­ied, Rhône-like wine with light pep­pery grip and lift to its sweet but fresh straw­berry, red cherry, plum and earthy un­der­tones. Lis­som. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.3% Moo­rilla Es­tate, Muse Series, St Matthias Vine­yard Caber­net Sau­vi­gnon- Caber­net Franc, Ta­mar Val­ley 2013 93 £45 Thos Peatling A finely etched, per­fumed blend, well sup­ported by fil­i­gree tan­nins and scin­til­lat­ing acid­ity – a spear to its jewel-bright black­cur­rant and red cherry fruit, with black olive, bal­samic and cedar notes be­hind. Long and ta­pered on the fin­ish. Drink 2017-2024 Alc 14.1% Stargazer, Pinot Noir, Coal River Val­ley 2016 93 £ 32.10-£ 35 Eno­tria& Coe, Exel, Great West­ern Wine Pale, wil­lowy and fra­grant, with mes­meris­ing waves of fresh, creamy red berry, cur­rant and cherry fruit, laced with peony, vi­o­lets, bit­ters and chamois tan­nins. Be­guil­ing. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.5% Devil’s Cor­ner, Pinot Noir, East Coast 2016 89 £ 14.39-£ 17.50 AC Gal­lie, Cam­bridge Wine Mer­chants, Hen­nings, Love Wine, Ran­noch Scott, The Wine So­ci­ety Un­oaked and ap­proach­able, with lifted vi­o­let aro­mas and herbal riffs, fresh sum­mer pud­ding savouri­ness and vel­vet tan­nins. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13%

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