Spät­bur­gun­der around Ger­many: Kre­biehl’s top 20

Decanter - - GERMANY -

Ru­dolf Fürst, Cent­grafen­berg Grosses Gewächs, Franken 2014 96 £62.45 Farr Vint­ners, Jus­terini & Brooks At first a whiff of oak, then sub­dued hints of tart red fruit and white pep­per. The palate is crisp and svelte, still crunchy, with its elfin tan­nins like finest tulle. A vein of fresh­ness runs through this, high­light­ing tart cran­berry and just oak-kissed rasp­berry. Grace­ful struc­ture and spice in the fore­ground. Un­forced, el­e­gant Pinot Noir of as­ton­ish­ing depth. Drink 2020-2035 Al­co­hol 13% Bern­hard Hu­ber, Mal­ter­dinger Bienen­berg Grosses Gewächs, Baden 2014 96 £ 35 Jus­terini & Brooks The nose has a touch of rose­hip be­fore broad­en­ing into red­cur­rant and a lovely leafi­ness that has touches of blood-like iron ox­ide. There is a slen­der den­sity on the palate, still tightly coiled: the 2014 streak of fresh acid­ity guar­an­tees a long life, while scin­til­lat­ing aro­mat­ics are an­chored in this wine’s DNA. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 12.5% Jean Stod­den, Neue­nahrer Son­nen­berg Grosses Gewächs, Ahr 2014 95 £69-£71 AC Gal­lie, ABS Wine Agen­cies, Love Wine Bun­dled red fruit aro­mas are bound up with moody smok­i­ness on the nose. The palate is con­cen­trated but translu­cent, vivid red­cur­rant and red cherry al­most have a glow­ing pres­ence, al­ways against that moody back­drop of smoke. The tan­nins have a super-fine, al­most stealthy grip, while acid lends bright­ness and back­bone. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13.5% Sch­nait­mann, Fell­bacher Lämm­ler Grosses Gewächs, Würt­tem­berg 2014 95 £61.75 ABS Wine Agen­cies, Hon­est Grapes Evoca­tive rasp­berry notes have the wilder­ness streak that comes from 100% whole-bunch fer­men­ta­tion. Exquisitely slen­der, fear­lessly bright and verg­ing on the po­etic. This is del­i­cate in struc­ture but has crunchy, pure fruit and last­ing depth. Idio­syn­cratic and wil­ful, but ut­terly con­vinc­ing as well. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 12.5% Dau­tel, Bön­nigheimer Son­nen­berg Spät­bur­gun­der, Würt­tem­berg 2013 94 £ 27.50 David Alexan­der, Delibo, Grape­smith Hunger­ford, The Hitchin Wine Co Ten­der red fruit is hinted at on the nose. Palate is in­cred­i­bly spicy, with pep­pery verve amid tart red­cur­rant, aro­matic cherry and bright cran­berry. Lively, fresh and pure. The body is translu­cent and slen­der, fresh and vivid. Great depth be­comes ev­i­dent on the long, pep­pery fin­ish . Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% Hol­ger Koch, Bick­en­sohler Her­ren­stück, Kais­er­stuhl, Baden 2014 94 £ 17.20 Howard Ri­p­ley Re­strained nose of tart red cherry with lovely, tin­gling pep­per spice. Translu­cent and evoca­tive with a won­drously el­e­gant and slen­der body. Shim­mer­ing with red fruit and real depth. Un­forced, fresh-faced and a real dis­cov­ery. In­cred­i­ble value, too. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 13% JB Becker, Wal­lufer Walken­berg Spätlese Trocken, Rhein­gau 2002 94 £61.99 The Win­ery Tasted in mag­num. Boasts the earthy, au­tum­nal al­lure of ma­ture Pinot, though tart cran­berry notes ap­pear af­ter a lit­tle air, all echoed on the palate, which shows glimpses of fra­grant white pep­per and flo­ral over­tones. The body is slen­der but still full of en­ergy, in­ci­sive and el­e­gant. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% JJ Adeneuer, No1 Spät­bur­gun­der Trocken, Ahr 2014 94 £ 39.99 The Win­ery Exquisitely fra­grant, this comes with over­tones of peony and an al­lur­ing ➢

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